Showing posts with label survival. Show all posts
Showing posts with label survival. Show all posts

Friday, 3 February 2012

How to Use Iodine to Sterilize Water

How to use iodine to sterilize water. Put 4-8 grams of iodine crystals in a
1 oz. glass jar (must have glass or bakelite stopper otherwise the iodine will
react with the plastic or metal stopper and destroy it.)  Actually 0.1 gram is
adequate for the job, but using a larger amount of iodine creates a saturated
solution much quicker.
  Put in 1 oz. (1 tablespoon or 3 teaspoons) of water (at least room
temperature, body temperature prefered).
  Close  stopper and shake for several minutes.  You now have a saturated
solution.  A saturated solution is when as much solid has disolved in a liquid
as it can.
  Carefully pour off 10ml (10cc, 2 teaspoons) of the saturated solution.
REMEMBER, the iodine crystals are VERY TOXIC!  The reason that adding more
water than needed is suggested is so that you need not tip the bottle over too
far thus spilling some crytals.
  Add the 10ml (2 teaspoons) of saturated solution to 1 liter (1.06 quart) of 
water.
  Let  stand  at  least 15 minutes at 77 degrees F. or higher. Make sure all
of the interior surface including lid get treated.
    
  How to use ionic iodine to counter radioactive iodine contamination.
  KI (potassium Iodide) (reagent grade is best)
  one  pound of KI = 3,500 doses = treatment for 35 adults or children for 100
days.
  Purchase crystalline or granular KI (reagent grade).
  Fill a glass jar 60% full of KI (2 oz. of KI in a 2 0z. bottle *dark glass*)
  Fill with water (90%)
  Shake for two minutes.
  Some of the KI should remain undissoloved (proof of saturated solution!)
  1 drop of saturated solution = 28 to 36 mg. of KI
  130  mg KI per day (4 drops) for Adults (FDA recommended daily dose), 65 mg 
per day (2 drops) for infants under 1 year.
  Radioactive iodine has a 8 day halflife, so 80 days = .1% (1/1,000)
  Period of dosage, start dosage beginning of first warning of a radioactive
iodine release from nuclear reactor accident or nuclear bomb detonation, 
continue until at least 10 days beyond most recent release of radioactive 
Iodine 131 is recommended minimum, 100 days would be the most conservative 
method of treatment.  Having only doses for a day or two is VASTLY better than
none at all.

The Art of Being Invisible, by Richard Perron

Sometimes your worst enemy is a fellow human being. It might be that you
are unlucky enough to be sent to a war zone.  I have crossed the Iron
Curtain six times illegally dodging the border patrols.  While I have had a
considerable amount of luck, you must have skill also. 

Know thy enemy.  It's unlikely that the enemy goes out in a dreadful weather
at night.  This is the time you can move well.  But beware, they probably
have set up land mines and traps.  I have seen chopped down trees that are
left rotting on the ground on the Iron Curtain.  That is a good place to
hide a land mine or to put a trap thread.  Don't even try!

The most unlikely place to put a land mine is a road used by the border
patrol themselves.  You can see the usage looking for new tire tracks on the
road. 

The border is full of military camps and installations.  Do not take any
photograps and avoid the camps altogether.  If you are caught they believe
you more if you don't have photos of their military stuff.  

Roads are risky.  You walk, but they drive and a car can appear suddenly,
before you can hide.  It's good if when you look obviously coming from
behind the border to be heading *away* from the border (showing them that
this is the maximum length that you have walked behind the border).  

If you look like a local, you can be walking either way.  Put a good stunt and
they'll pass you.  They don't have time to question all locals. 

Caves and pits are good in hiding from the heat detecting camera.  There is
an anti-heat detector suit commercially available, but if you are caught in
that you have one excuse less.  If you see a patrol coming, take a step or
two to cover youself.  Don't run, don't panic.  Remember to have a
believable excuse. 

INVESTMENT IN SURVIVAL by Kurt Saxon


In the next two years I see the collapse of organized 
societies worldwide, due mainly to the cutoff of Mideast oil, 
probably resulting in nuclear war.  It's too late to develop 
alternative energies so a sizeable cutback in oil will cause a 
massive depression.
     Millions of taxpayers will be unemployed.  Over 30 million 
Social Security recipients and nearly that amount on Welfare 
will see their checks stopped.  Millions who are now on Valium or 
other narcotic tranquilizers will go insane when they cannot get 
more.  Medical supplies will command astronomical prices as drug 
addicts swarm over pharmacies looking for dope, ruining everything 
they don't steal.
     Cities will be cut off from food as oil supplies run out and 
the truckers cannot get fuel.  As oil-based fertilizers become 
unavailable to grow food, agricultural production will drop to the 
point where famine will be a reality.
     No governmental system can long put off the inevitability of 
the above chaos and ruin of our already overburdened society.  Our 
computer-run system has heretofore depended on a certain percentage 
of competent types to second guess our increasingly underachieving 
majority and the politicians catering to them for their votes.  But 
the comptents are gradually giving up and dropping out, almost like 
in Ayn Rand's "Atlas Shrugged".  Of course, they are less motivated 
by the logic of withdrawal than by the sheer hopelessness and 
frustration of the task of maintaining a Disneyland for dummies.  
The threatened cutoff of oil is only the last straw in a long 
sequence of factors leading to our ultimate decline and final 
collapse.
     The process of social disintegration began years ago in 
various stages.  There is no one cause nor one year.  A combination 
of giving in to human, social, political and economic weaknesses, 
accelerating year by year, has led up to the twilight of world 
civilization.  The Liberal altruists seeking to make a place in the 
sun for the underachiever and the "disenfranchised" has enabled the
unproductive to gain a majority in most societies.  So, like 
Babylon, Greece, Egypt, Rome and so many other civilizations, our 
Disneyland, too, will shut down forever.
     So many world systems are breaking down at this time that it 
is projected by socio-economists more knowledgeable than I that the 
collapse will come in late 1981 or '82.  It will begin like the 1929 
Stock Market Crash and go on to the utter ruin and obliteration of 
nations.
     Many others predict another crash and depression.  But most of 
them expect a reconstruction similar to that following the 
Depression of the thirties.  But even in the depths of the last 
depression, there was plenty of oil, plenty of fertile farmland, a 
relatively small world population, oceans of fish, little 
pollution, overall mental health, intelligence and competence.
     The difference for our generation is that the easily 
accessible and cheap fuel, extensive fertile farmlands and economic 
freedom which made possible our world's surplus population, no 
longer exists to perpetuate it.  Even with our bounty following the 
Crash of '29, it wasn't until ten years later, and mainly through 
war production that our economy recovered from the Depression.
     Our politicians have so devoted themselves to nurturing and 
perpetuating hordes of incompetent dependents that further 
industrialization to put our nation on a war footing will be 
unaffordable.  Even if it were not, our present union-spoiled and 
demanding work force could not be expected to perform the way our 
parents did in the war plants in the late 30's and early 40's.
     Police go on strike in high crime areas.  Firemen picket while 
tenements burn.  Hospital workers walk out on the suffering.  
Teachers stay home for weeks as their students languish in a state 
of drooling imbecility.  Why should we believe that this generation 
of workers will show more dedication to duty than our supposedly 
disciplined public servants?  No.  Our present working class lacks 
the sense of duty to again put our country on a war footing and 
revive our economy.
     That's why I see no avoidance of nuclear war.  The world's 
resources are in too short a supply to spare for a conventionally 
waged Third World War.  The world's workers are no longer competent 
or disciplined enough to produce for such a war.  But the 
belligerent powers do have the nuclear weapons to fight such a war 
and so they will have no other recourse but to use them.
     But no matter.  The Earth's surplus population is long overdue 
for a culling.  A nuclear holocaust will be a blessing for the 
survivors.  We can start anew, hopefully avoiding past errors.  
Imagine a world without such festering social sores as New York, 
Washington D.C., San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, Detroit, 
Moscow, Rome, Peking or any of the other great pestholes harboring 
the majority of the world's parasites and bureaucrats.  In light of 
all this, to survive, you must move about a hundred miles from any 
major target area.
     A lot of boasting is done by and on behalf of the Russians 
concerning their technology.  I believe it to be more science 
fiction than science.  They can't land a man on the moon and return 
him or even decisively defeat the Afghans.
     Their targets will most likely be the major cities.  Their 
overall strategy would be to knock out the U.S. capability to 
prevent them from taking over Europe, the Mideast and Africa.  Even 
if they lost their own major cities they might believe they could 
still prevail with the U.S. crippled.
     I don't think they would waste missiles on our missile sites 
and SAC bases, since our missiles and planes would be well away 
before they could be hit.  Nor do I believe isolated nuclear 
reactors would be targets.  With the cities they served knocked 
out, they would be worthless.  Even so, I wouldn't trust their 
crews to deactivate them.  Panic, carelessness or sheer 
incompetence will cause a lot of meltdowns after a nuclear war so I 
wouldn't live near one.
     While the Russians prepare to exterminate the Chinese and use 
what's left of their missiles on the world's major cities, you 
should prepare to weather the storm.  Then, while the surviving 
Russians, Europeans, etc. revert to primitive tribalism, we can be 
on our way back up.
     Following the collapse and/or nuclear war, there will be up to 
three billion less humans to share our planet with.  Even so, the 
devastation of the cities will mean an automatic lowering of the 
levels of technology.  The cities, even those not bombed, will 
explode in panic, rioting and looting hardly imaginable.  Most 
machinery and articles of value will be destroyed.
     After the initial chaos it may take up to five years for the 
roots of civilization to send up shoots.  Citizens of small towns 
will immediately organize to fight off bands of refugees and 
marauders.  City and suburban survivors wil scrounge from the 
rubble enough to barely live.  Finally, after the less adaptable 
have died out, the criminal elements have been killed off, and the 
survivors have become more interested in trading with than killing 
off one another, culture will reemerge.
     In the meantime, those who planned to survive will be the 
virtual salvation of their neighbors.  They will have books on 
basic 19th and early 20th century technology such as found in THE 
SURVIVOR and other Atlan publications.  They will have metal 
working lathes, scroll saws and various other power tools to make 
things for barter.  They will have basic barter goods to trade for 
necessities.
     I read and hear a lot about investments as a hedge against the 
collapse.  Most such advice is given by professional investment 
counselors who are experts on speculation.  Their advice is usually 
very good in times of affluence when the game is played with 
intangibles such as precious metals, gems, paintings, antiques, 
stocks, bonds, etc.  These things have value in the same sense that 
bubble gum cards and marbles have great value among children.
     But to advise their purchase for security after the collapse 
of a whole way of life is either stupidity or fraud.  Many survival 
investment counselors predict an economic collapse, followed by a 
severe depression and resulting civil strife.  In time, they say, 
reconstruction will take place, a gold-backed, liberty-loving 
republic will be established and we will live happily ever after in 
some sort of upper middle class paradise.
     Promoters of the above scenario conveniently lose sight of our 
millions of mentally defective social dependents, the 55% 
functional illiteracy rate among our voting populace and the "hope 
of the future".  It should stand to reason that with an electorate 
markedly inferior to that of only a generation ago, a political 
victory by a conservative is impossible.  Since the majority of the 
electorate consumes more than they produce, they will naturally 
vote only for those politicos who promise them more benefits with 
less responsibility.
     As Rome and the rest of the world of her day degenerated and 
collapsed, giving way to a centuries long dark age, so may our 
present system.  Whether our survivors revert to barbarism depends 
on those of us who can preserve the best of our culture and 
knowledge.  This includes our technology, science, machinery and 
the chemicals and other raw materials needed to start over.
     Those who invest in gold, silver, gems, paintings and antiques 
will make no contribution to the future.  They have been led to 
believe by "survival investment counselors" that the ignorant 
peasantry will flock to them with their chickens and tomatoes to 
trade for slivers of gold, not to mention the honor of basking in 
their glorious presence.
     Quite the opposite will be true.  The average survivalist will 
have only contempt, and even hostility, for the formerly affluent 
who invested in intangibles instead of useful tools and day-to-day 
necessities unavailable after the collapse.
     The idea of investing in intangibles seems all the more 
preposterous when one realizes that the wealthiest investors got 
theirs through investing in basic needs such as grains, raw 
materials, machinery, etc.  Since investing in needs is the key to 
wealth in times of affluence, common sense dictates that basic 
necessities will be the key to wealth after the collapse.  The 
investor who makes a million in grain and turns around and puts his 
profits into gold will find himself paying all his gold for enough 
to eat, if he can find someone who wants it.
     On the other hand, had he bought and stored grains in a secure 
place now, when the collapse comes, he could get all the gold he 
wanted from anyone sucker enough to have laid it by.  He could also 
trade his grains for whatever other foods and barter commodities 
were available.
     The truly wealthy should put their investment cash into 
warehouses full of power tools, medicines, chemicals, canned foods, 
clothing, weapons, etc.  You'd be surprised how quickly such items 
will disappear when no longer manufactured.  It stands to reason 
that such storage places should be located in small towns away form 
populace areas and refugee routes.
     The more modest investors should stock up on such barter items 
as bullets, salt, cocoa, razor blades, cosmetics, plain aspirin, 
ball point pens, metal pens and pen holders plus ink, matches, 
garden seeds, needles, spools of thread, chewing tobacco, plain 
antihistamine for colds, combs, tweezers, pocket knives, lighters 
and extra flints plus lighter fluid, chewing gum and just about 
anything that can't be made by hand.

Inverter Power Specifications


How much usable power do inverters really give you? This question is much
harder to answer than it might seem. The main problem is that we don't have
a commonly accepted rating standard. For example, we call the Trace 2012 a
2000 watt inverter but actually it will only do 2000 watts for up to 30
minutes. The continuous rating is only about 1340 watts. Both Heart & Trace
600 watt inverters have continuous ratings of only 400 watts. Even
"continuous ratings" have different standards. According to a Heart
inverter graph, the 1200W model has a continuous rating of about 1000
watts. According to the UL method of rating, the continuous output for this
inverter is only 750 watts. Our new Dimensions Inverters are all rated
according to this strict UL standard and we hope it will become a standard
used by all companies.

         Inverter         Rated Watts Continuous Watts  Cost    Cost per
                                                                  watt
 ProorWatt 125 (Statpower)    125            125        $130      $1.04
       Powerstar 200          200            140        $150      1.07
   Vanner Pure Sine Wave      150            150        $517      3.45
       Statpower 250          250            200        $185       .93
       Exeltech 250           250            250        $395      1.58
       PowerStar 400          400            400        $490      1.23
       Heart EMS 600          600            402       $550       1.37
         Trace 724            700            425        $615      1.45
       Exeltech 500           500            500        $595      1.19
       ProWatt 600            600            500        $449       .90
     Dimensions 12/500        500            500        $760      1.52
        Trace 812             800            575       $550        .96
       PowerStar 700          700            700        $590       .84
      New Mar 12-1200        1200            700       $1290      1.84
     Dimensions 12/750        750            750       $825       1.10
      Heart EMS 1200         1200            900       $1198      1.33
    Dimensions 12/1100        1100          1100        $895       .81
      Heart EMS 1800          1800          1100       $1500      1.36
    Dimensions 12/1200        1200          1200        $995       .83
      PowerStar 1300          1300          1300        $890       .68
        Trace 2012            2000          1400       $1090       .78
        Trace 2524            2500          1500       $1350       .90
       ProWatt 1500           1500          1500        $795       .53
    Heliotrope 12-2500        2500          1500       $3150      2.10
   Photocomm PCUL 12/17       1700          1700       $1150       .68
    Dimensions 12/1700        1700          1700       $1295       .76
    Dimensions 24/1700        1700          1700       $1425       .84
      Heart EMS 2800          2800          2000       $2090      1.05
        Vanner 24V            3000          2000       $1890       .95
    Dimensions 12/2100        2100          2100       $1695       .81
    Dimensions 24/2100        2100          2100       $1795       .85
   Photocomm PCUL 12/24       2400          2400       $2400      1.00
    Dimensions 12/2400        2400          2400       $1995       .83
    Dimensions 24/2400        2400          2400       $2195       .91
        Westec 24V            3000          3000       $3100      1.03
    Dimensions 24/3600        3600          3600       $2595       .72
   Photocomm PCUL 24/48       4800          4800       $3700       .77
    Dimensions 24/4800        4800          4800       $2995       .62

The Injuries that will result from a Nuclear Explosions


This report concerns the types of injuries that will be produced by a
nuclear explosion.  The first topic to be covered will be scales of
destruction, or how different sizes of bombs will produce different mixes of
injuries and at what ranges.  This part has a little math and geometry in it
but is only five minutes long. Don't go to sleep yet! The second topic will be
types and ranges of injuries caused by the blast portion of the bomb. This will
cover injuries caused strictly by the over-pressure, throwing the body from the
static pressure, injuries from hurled objects, and injuries from collapsing
buildings.  The third topic will cover immediate burns caused by the heat from
the bomb itself and secondary burns from items ignited by the bomb.  The
fourth topic is ionizing radiation, prompt (immediate) and secondary (fallout).
    Many films that you see about the effects of nuclear weapons are based on
the experiance gained from Hiroshima and Nagasaki.  Some people say that there
is nothing to be learned from there since today the weapons are hundreds and
thousands of times more powerful.  Those films can be informative IF you
understand that a bomb is a sherical phenomenon.  People are used to thinking
linearly  1+1=2, 2+2=4, etc.  But spheres aren't like that.  Let's look at some
math for a bit here.
   One dimension. All this is, is addition, 1+1=2, 2+2=4, 4+4=8, 8+8=16, etc.
   If we want to increase the distance that we can reach with a stick all we
have to do is increase the length of the stick by the same factor - in other
words to double the distance/reach you just double length, triple the distance/
reach, triple the length, ten times the distance/reach, ten times the length.
That's simple, everybody understands that! However...
   Two demensions, now we are talking of area, this is multiplication now!
1x1=1, 2x2=4, 4x4=16, 8x8=64, 64x64=4,096, etc.  The term "SQUARED" is used,
which is just a number multiplied by itself. 2 squared = 4, 4 squared = 16,
8 squared = 64, 64 squared is 4,096, etc. Think of this as pouring a bucket of
paint over a flat floor and figuring out how many cans of paint we need to
cover a larger circle than just a single can would cover.
  If we want to increase the size of a circle that we are going to paint we
have to use the formula of a circle's area which is Area = Pi times radius
times radius or A = Pi x R x R or A = 3.1416 x R-squared.  Here if we have a
circle of one unit of radius (foot, meter, yard, whatever) we need "X" amount
of paint to cover that area 3.1416 x 1 x 1 = "X".  If our circle's radius
increases by a factor of 2 we need 4 times "X" amount of paint, 3.1416 x 2 x 2
= 4"X", for three times the radius we need 9 times "X" amount of paint,
3.1416 x 3 x 3 = 9"X".  For ten times the radius, 100 "X" amount of paint,
3.14.16 x 10 x 10 = 100"X".  That's a little more difficult.
   Three dimensions!  Here's where we lose people.  If you are sleep prone,
I'll try to wake you after I talk about the math a bit.  We are still using
multiplication, just more of it!  To figure out the Volume of a box we
multiply Height times Width times Depth, or V = H x W x D.  For
calculating the volume of a shpere we take four divided three times Pi times
radius times radius times radius, or Volume = 4/3 x Pi x R x R x R, or
V = 1.3333 x 3.1416 x R x R x R, or V = 4.1888888 times R cubed.  Cubed is
just a number multiplied by itself twice. 1 cubed = 1x1x1 = 1, 2 cubed = 2x2x2
=8, 3 cubed = 3x3x3 = 9, 4 cubed = 4x4x4 = 64, 10 cubed = 10x10x10 = 1,000
  Now that we know all of that!!! the rest is easy....
  A standard rule of thumb for recalculating blast effects for various sizes of
bombs is to take the megatonage of the new bomb divide by the megatonage of
the old bomb, take the cube root of the results and multiply that times the
radius of blast effect.  Example to compare a 1 KT (0.001 MT) to a 1,000 KT
(1MT) 1,000 divided by 1 = 1,000.  The cube root of 1,000 is 10
(10x10x10=1,000).  Therefore you can take the blast effect at X feet (or miles)
for a 1 KT and multiply that distance by 10 to get approx. the same effect for
a 1,000 KT bomb.  Other common multipliers would be

 Mulitplier/divider    cube/cube root   1 KT multiplier      1 MT divider
 2                     2x2x2=8           8 KT                125 KT (0.125MT)
 3                     3x3x3=27         27 KT                 37 KT
 4                     4x4x4=64         64 KT                 16 KT
 5                     5x5x5=125       125 KT                  8 KT
 6                     6x6x6=216       216 KT                  4 KT
 7                     7x7x7=343       343 KT                  3 KT
 8                     8x8x8=512       512 KT                  2 KT
 9                     9x9x9=729       729 KT                  1 1/3 KT
 10                    10x10x10=1,000  1,000 KT (1 MT)         1 KT

So this shows that if you want to double the damage distance for a given size
of bomb you need to increase the power by a factor of 8.  If you want to double
that distance again you need a bomb that is 8x8 or 64 times as powerful.  This
is why you can get the same amount of damage done with 10-40 KT bombs spread
out as you can with a 1,000 KT (1 MT) bomb.  So if we look at Hiroshima with
20KT and say okay what will a 1MT (1,000KT) bomb do?  Well 1,000/20 = 50. Now
then, what times what times what = 50, well 3.7 cubed is 50.653 so an effect
one mile from GZ at Hiroshima will be the same effect at 3.7 miles for a 1MT.
Now this is for blast effects not heat effects, we'll cover those later.
  Okay any questions?
  All right, that's the end of the math, you can wake up again!
  Okay let's talk about blast injuries.  To avoid confusion we need to talk
about overpressure (static-pressure) and dynamic pressure.  When you think
about overpressure, think about a barometer, normal air pressure is about
15 P.S.I.  Overpressure is simply the air pressure in excess of the normal
atmospheric pressure.  Overpressure is what would cause an empty sealed can to
be crushed on all sides.  Dynamic pressure is a wind.  Dynamic pressure is the
figure that we use to calculate the horsepower of a sail on a sailboat. Damage
is caused by wind resistance.  The dynamic pressure is proportional to the
square of the wind speed and to the density of the air behind the shock front.
In a nuclear blast the air density can be quite high and this is why just
looking at the wind speed alone doesn't give the entire story.  Also, the
duration of the dynamic pressure comes into effect.  Dynamic pressure is what
would cause an empty sealed can to be blown into the next county.  Think about
a sheet of plywood placed perpendicular or parallel to a blast front. Ignoring
the time it takes for the overpressure to get from the front to the back of
the plywood, the overpressure shouldn't do much damage.  Contrast that to the
same sheet hit broadsides or sideways by dynamic pressure!
    A further note on duration.  Many things can take great stresses over very
short periods of time.  Example, a fast blow fuse can pass ten times its
amperage rating for a fraction of a second.  In overpressure this is why lung
injuries occur at pressures that would not cause harm if the pressure were for
only a second or two.
   Ok, injuries in humans caused by the blast.  Now when I talk about injuries
from a specific effect I am talking about just that single effect.  In real
life, a victim might have some lung damage, some broken bones, 2nd degree
burns, and some blood loss from flying glass shards.  Each one seperately might
not be lethal, but in combination they might be.
   Let's start with overpressure.  Overpressure is associated with ear and lung
damage from fast-rising, long duration pressure pulses.  If it were a slow
rising pulse the body can equalize, as in scuba-diving.  If it were short
duration the parts could stand greater stress.  You won't die from eardrum
rupture, but it does reduce your abiltiies!  5 Pounds per Square Inch is where
eardrum rupture starts.  There is a great deal of variation in suscetabilty to
damage.  The very old are most susceptable.  50% of population rupture occurs
at around 15-20 PSI for over 20 years old and around 30-35 PSI for under 20
years old.  Again, there is a wide individual variance here.  Also, some
eardrum will spontaneously heal with only slight or partial hearing loss.
Lung damage begins at 12 (8-15) PSI.  Severe lung damage occurs at 25 (20-30)
PSI.  Lethality begins at 40 (30-50) PSI, 50% lethal at 62 (50-75) PSI and
100% lethal 92 (75-115) PSI. P.549  "Persons who spontaneously survive for 24
to 48 hours in the absence of treatment, complications, or other injury usually
recover and show little remaining lung hemmorrhage after 7 to 10 days.  In very
severe injuries under treatment, recurring lung hemorrhage has been reported as
long as 5 to 10 days after injury.
 Overpressure       20KT         200KT           2MT             20MT
 1 PSI              3.5 miles    7.5 miles       16.5 miles      36 miles
 2 PSI              2.1          4.6             10              21
 5 PSI              1.1          2.5              5.4            12
 40 PSI              .28          .6              1.3             2.8
 62 PSI              .23          .5              1               2.3
 92 PSI              .19          .4               .9             1.9
   Any questions on overpressure?
   Dynamic pressure injuries are typically measured in the speed (feet/second)
at which a human body is thrown against something hard. Injuries here are
cuncussion, skull, heel, foot, legs, and arm fractures.  There is a great deal
of variability in these injuries.  A threshold of injuries standing up might
occur at 10-12 ft/sec with fractures at 13-16 and while sitting the threshold
may be 15-26 ft/sec.  Skull fractures - "safe" 10 ft/sec, threshold 13, 50% at
18 ft/sec and 100% at 23.  From total body impact - mostly "safe" 10 ft/sec.,
1% fatal 21 ft/sec, 50% 54 ft/sec., and near 100% 138 ft/sec.  These are
assuming that the body is hurled perpendicular against a hard object.
 Dynamic pressure 20KT            200KT           2MT             20MT
 10 ft/sec       1.2 miles       3.0 miles       7.4 miles       17 miles
 21 ft/sec        .9             2.4             6               14
 54 ft/sec        .6             1.7             4                9.5
 138 ft/sec       .3              .9             2.4              5.5
  Well what about being blasted in an open field?  You can be tumbled to death.
There are no good figures on this since there is no actual data and only
animal experiments have been used.  The best guess is that 1% non-fatal injury
would occur at 30 ft/sec. and 50% injured at 75 ft/sec.  We really don't know.
   Any questions on dynamic pressure?
   Many casualties and deaths will occur from building collaspe.  A typical
house is calculated to have these characteristics. 50 PSI = 100% certian dead,
20 PSI = 50% killed - 35% trapped - 5% untrapped but seriously injured, 10 PSI
= 10% killed - 35% trapped - 6% untrapped but seriously injured. 5 PSI = 1%
killed - 10% trapped - 6% untrapped but seriously injured.  Now those are from
the British home office and for overpressure ONLY.  I feel they are whistling
in the dark, but perhaps they figure that a British house has stronger and
heavier sidewalls if it uses structural brick or stone rather than using
brick as a decorative siding as in America.
   Injuries from heat can be burns from the flash or secondary fires.  Flash
burns and fires are HIGHLY variable due to landscape interference, dust and
moisture in the air, and topography.  While there is some damage from
reflected light and heat, most of the damage is from line of sight to the
point of explosion.  Another complicating factor in heat related injuries is
the speed at which the bomb releases its heat and how well the object or person
relfects, absorbs or disipates the heat.  Smaller bombs dump their heat
quicker since there is less heat to dump.  See chart.
 Percentage of
 heat released    20 KT           200 KT          2 MT            20 MT
 20%              .16 seconds     .4 seconds      1.15 seconds    3 seconds
 50%              .35             .95             2.2             7
 70%              .8             2.2              6               15

Whites reflect heat while blacks, blues, and purples absorb heat.  Also, even
though the object is stationary and doesn't move (by say failing to the ground
and rolling) it can still release heat while more is coming in.  That is why
just looking at the calories per square centimeter at a certian distance does
not tell the whole story.  Examples, see P. 564 and P. 565. A third degree burn
from a 10 MT ranges from 10.5 to 12.5 Calories per Square Centimeter depending
on skin color and a 3rd degree from a 20 KT ranges from 6 to 8 Cal/SqCm. For
those two bomb sizes 2nd degree burns range from 6.5 to 8.25 and 4 to 5 CSC.
For 1st degree burns 3.5 to 4.5 and 2 to 2.5 CSC for 10MT and 20 KT. With the
range of needed CSC linear for bombs in between those two sizes.
 Degree of burn   20KT            200 KT          2 MT            20 MT
 First            2.2 miles       6.2 miles       16 miles        35 miles
 Second           1.7             4.8             12.5            30
 Third            1.3             3.8             10.5            26.5

 SIZE                     35 KT             1.4 MT                20 MT
 Paper bag burns          10 Cal/SqCm       13 Cal/SqCm           20 CSC
 New blue jeans burn      12                27                    44
 white cotton shirt burns 32                48                    85
  Here is what range you would get from various bombs
 Cal/SqCm         20 KT           200 KT          2 MT            20 MT
 1                3.4 miles       9 miles         22 miles
 5                1.7             5               13              35
 10               1.2             3.6             10.5            29
 20                .85            2.6              8              23
 50                .55            1.7              5.4            17
 100               .4             1.2              4              13
    Please remember these are assuming a clear sky, no rain, no dust, no haze,
no smog, etc.
   Injuries to eyes fall into two catagories.  Permanent (retnal burns) and
temporary flashblindness.  You of course can suffer from both.  Flashblindness
is just like staring into a flashbulb, useful vision is lost for several
seconds to several minutes.  A retnal burn causes blindness on the point of
the retina where the flash is seen.  There is an emense variation here
depending again on clarity of sky and also whether the pupil is wide open at
night or fairly closed from mid-day sun.  See page  571-574 for details.
There is one other eye "problem" that should be mentioned, Keratitis which is
inflamation of the cornea.  The symptoms are pain caused by light, a sensation
that a foreign body is in the eye, lachrymation (unnatural tears), and redness.
These symptoms lasted from a few hours to several days.  At Hiroshima only 4%
of those standing in the open within 1.25 miles of GZ suffered keratitis within
24 hours.  An additional 1.5% had symptoms up to one month.
  Wake up!  I'm almost done.
  The last and FINAL topic is radiation.  Immediate radiation from the the
blast is significant only from smaller bombs since the deadly other effects
outdistance the radiation effects in larger bombs.
 REMS             20 KT           200 KT          2 MT            20 MT
 1                1.7 miles       2.1 miles       2.8 miles       4 miles
 10               1.4             1.8             2.4             3.6
 100              1.05            1.45            2.1             3.2
 400               .9             1.3             1.8             3
 1,000             .8             1.15            1.7             2.8
 10,000            .54             .85            1.3             2.3
 100,000           .32             .56            1.8             1.68
 1,000,000         .16             .33             .59             .97
   The reason that 10,000 REMS and higher is included in this chart is that it
is possible to build shelters to withstand 200 PSI overpressure.  These
are usually buried enough to have Protection Factors of over 1 million.  See
FIGHTING CHANCE: 10 feet to Survival and FIGHTING CHANCE newsletter.

Hunting to Survive, by Bob Newman


 THE tremendous cow moose stepped out from the spruce  thicket 
into  the  tote  road that my hunting partner, Pete  and  I  were 
crouched along the side of. We had seen the beasts moving through 
the dense understory and had taken up position behind a small fir 
about  25 yards downwind from them. We knew there were  at  least 
two moose, but were unable to tell if one was a bull, because  of 
the extremely limited visibility.

 Pete, an expert marksman and sound all-around outdoorsman,  drew 
a bead on the big cow astride the road and paused, waiting to see 
if  a  bull stepped out behind her. His Ruger  No.  1,  chambered 
in  .270  Winchester, was rock steady as the  crosshairs  of  his 
scope found the mark. I was directly behind him.

  "Hold on," I whispered softly. "Wait for the other one."'
 A moment later the other one appeared. A slightly smaller cow.
  "Take her." I whispered.

  Pete's  .270  spoke with authority and the  unseen  round  sped 
towards its target, a spot right between the giant moose's  eyes. 
It  impacted  precisely where Pete had directed it.  And  bounced 
right off her sloped forehead.

  To  say that we were surprised at this annoying turn of  events 
would  certainly be an understatement. We tad both seen  a  chunk 
of  fur and some bone fragments fly off her grazed head,  but  it 
was  clear  the  round did not penetrate more than  a  couple  of 
millimeters, since the critter was still standing in front of us.

  She and the other cow wheeled and bolted back into the  thicket 
from  whence  they came. I managed to get off one  poorly  placed 
shot  at  the fleeing moose, but the round flew  high  and  found 
nothing but air.

   We stood in stunned silence for a few minutes before either of 
us spoke.  Neither of us had ever seen anything like that, in our 
combined 45 years of hunting.

   Pete  spoke first, "I don't believe that!  I nailed her  right 
between the runnin' lights!"

  "The round bounced clean off 'er. Let's see if we can cut  some 
sign;' I replied, and we both cautiously moved into the  thicket. 
No  need to pursue her at close quarters. A wounded moose is  not 
the  creature  of  choice to get up close and  personal  with  in 
situations  such as these. Their broad, slashing hooves  and  im 
pressive size have sent many a woodsmen to his grave.

 We spent the next 90 minutes searching for sign, finding only  a 
few  spots  of dark blood among the widely-placed prints  in  the 
soft earth. For more than a mile we trailed her until finally the 
blood  disappeared altogether. It was painfully clear to us  that
she  was barely scratched and had no intention of  slowing  down. 
Incredible but true. A quirk in ballistics and the sloping  fore 
head of the moose had cost us a freezer full of tender meat.

  Not five minutes after we dejectedly clambered back into Pete's 
venerable  LandCruiser we spotted another huge cow feeding  in  a 
bog.  Pete  chambered a round and scampered along the side  of  a 
knoll to get into firing position.

 As  the  gargantuan animal lifted its head from the  murky  mire 
Pete  let  'er fly, the round catching the cow  just  behind  and 
below the right ear.  She went down like an Iraqi bridge. 

  We would have that tender meat in the freezer after all.  Five-
hundred pounds of it to be exact.

   That memorable excursion in the pristine mountains of  western 
Maine, near the village of Rangeley taught me an important lesson 
in  survival hunting: Expect the unexpected, even  the  seemingly 
impossible  And don't get "down in the mouth"  because  something 
didn't go as planned. Press on! Your luck will change. It's  just 
that you have to make it change.
Be An Animal - That's right. Be an animal! After all you are one. 
Man  has been hunting for survival for eons, literally. Sure,  he 
was  a bit hairier and somewhat more attuned to  his  environment 
when  he was what anthropologists call Cro-Magnon or  Neanderthal 
He had to be in order to make it. But that doesn't mean you can't 
be just as adept a survivor as your forebearers.

 You've got what it takes to be an efficient survival hunter. You 
were  born  with it, "it" being survival instinct. We  all  were. 
What  you have to do though, since man has become a creature  who 
is  what a buddy of mine calls a "slave to comfort;'  is  relearn 
what modern man has lost.

  So  how do we go about this reeducation? A number of ways,  the 
most  effective  of which is hands-on training.  In  other  words 
first-hand  experience. Hook-up with someone whose  expertise  in 
the  art of survival hunting is known to you. Every time he -  or 
she - steps into the wilds to hunt, you be right behind them. Ask 
questions.  But  not when your mentor is about  to  dispatch  the 
grizzly  they have been tracking for seven hours and is now  mere 
yards away from. Wait for a more advantageous time.

 Read.  Read everything you can get your hands on  pertaining  to 
hunting. And don't just stick with the more modern books, either. 
The  works  of old are often intriguing and  exceptionally  well-
written. A few of my favorites are Osborne Russell's Journal of a 
Trapper  Wm.  O. Pruitt Jr:s Wild Harmony Animals  of  the  North 
Stalking  in the Himalayas and Northern India, by Lt.  Col.  G.H. 
Stockley and David Attenborough's The Living Planet. Not  exactly 
what you expected? Trust me. I have gleaned reams of  information 
from books such as these. Information that has proven  invaluable 
to me time and time again.

  Other excellent books include The Audubon Society Nature  Guide 
series,  which is jammed with myriad bits of useful  information, 
The Audubon Society Field Guide Series, which is outstanding, and 
Harper  & Row's Complete Field Guide to North American  Wildlife. 
You would do well to have these in your personal library.

 Own  a  TV?  Your local PBS channel may offer one  of  the  best 
nature  shows on television: Nature Scene. If you get  it,  don't 
miss  it.  Another worthwhile production on your PBS  station  is 
Nature.

  L.L. Bean, which I teach a wilderness survival workshop for  in 
their Outdoor Discovery Program, offers one of the finest  series 
of  hunting videos available. For a list of all the  videos  they 
have available, write to L.L. Bean at Freeport, Maine 04033.

  There  are also a wide variety of magazines on the market  that 
publish  a  plethora  of information on hunting  Don't  make  the 
mistake of buying a magazine for its eye-catching cover,  though. 
Buy the magazine for its instructional value, not its aesthetics

  If  you are in a genuine survival situation, common sense  dic 
tates  that  you must take what you find. The rules  go  out  the 
window  when  it's between you and Mother Nature. Keep  in  mind, 
however,  that  when you are "practicing" your  survival  skills, 
ethics  dictate that you must stay within the realm of  the  law. 
Those laws may seem bothersome to you from time to time, but they 
are the reason we still have game to hunt in this country.

  It  goes without saying that different animals  have  different 
habits.  One  factor remains a constant,  though.  Everything  an 
animal  does  is  directly influenced by its need  for  food  and 
water,  shelter from the elements, self-preservation or  procrea 
tion. If you approach survival hunting with these things in mind, 
you  will  already  have taken a giant step forward  in  being  a 
successful hunter.

  If you are impatient, stop being so right now.
  There now. That was easy, wasn't it? The most proficient  hunt 
ers  are patient almost to a fault. They can - and do - lay in  a 
"hide"  for hours on end without so much as twitching. They  will 
stalk or track their quarry until they take it, regardless of low 
long it takes or what the conditions are. Patience means determi 
nation.

 And they are intimately familiar with the habits of their  prey. 
They  do not guess. They calculate. They do not take risks.  They 
weigh the odds and take the necessary action. They hunt intending 
to kill. They mean full well to come out on top.

  In survival hunting, it's not how you play the game; its wheth 
er  or not you win. If you win, you live. If you lose, you  don't 
live.

  Deer such as the revered white-tailed (Odocoileus  virginianus)
are  one of the most wary mammals on the continent.  Becoming  an 
expert  at successfully hunting them takes years,  even  decades. 
They are elusive beyond belief at times, but still find their way 
into tens of thousands of hunter's freezers every year.

  These hunters know that deer, like any other animal, crave sex, 
though probably not for the same reason humans do. They use  buck 
"grunts"  to  lure in rutting males. They  smear  the  vegetation 
around  their  hides and stands with chemicals that  imitate  doe 
estrus. They take note of sign that indicates the presence of  an 
active buck, such as scrapes and rubs.

  They  also know that deer love apples, acorns and a  remarkable 
variety  of other foods. They put this knowledge to good  use  by 
taking up a shooting position between resting and feeding areas.

  And they are very aware of the fact that deer have exceptional 
ly  keen  senses. Their sense of smell and sound  are  incredibly 
well-tuned.

  Curiosity  is one of their shortcomings as well, besides  their 
sometimes  overpowering urge for food and sex. On  several  occa 
sions  I  have  snuck up on deer that were  lying  on  hillsides, 
looking down onto a road, watching the cars go by.

  Waterfowl, on the other hand, do not display this blatant sense 
of curiosity. Ducks and geese are known for their skepticism  and 
shyness.  They do, however, have a strong desire  for  companion 
ship. They can be lured into a decoy set if you place the  blocks 
correctly and use your call in the right manner.

 Both of these skills takes practice, as you might expect.  After 
more  than two decades of water fowling, I am just now  beginning 
to get quite good at the use of decoys and calls. Then again,  it 
may be that I am just a tad slower than the next guy.

  Ducks  and  geese have fantastic eyesight.  Perfect  camouflage 
means more birds for the survival hunter.

  Upland  game  such as rabbits and squirrels  are  frequently  - 
almost  always  - easier to come by than big game like  deer  and 
moose. There are generally more of them in a given area, and they 
are  usually much less wary. Woodchucks, prairie  dogs,  badgers, 
marmots and other burrowing mammals make for easy pickings if you 
are  good  with a flat and fast shooting varmint  rifle  such  as 
the  .220  Swift or 15-06 Remington. Look for woodchucks  in  the 
early  morning  and late afternoon in  rocky  fields,  especially 
those with a bit of slope to them.

   Start  boning up now for the time when survival hunting is  no 
longer  a pleasant diversion on a perfect weekend, but a  "do  or 
die" situation when you least expect it.

   Unlikely?  That's  what the Filipinos  and  Japanese  thought, 
until volcanoes started going off in their backyards.

Building a Survivalist Homestead

This article is taken from American Survival Guide July,
1993 volume 15 number 7 pages 56 thru 59
Name: One Effort, Multiple Results: Survival Homestead
By: Richard R Doucet
===========================================================
The author is a retired U.S. Army sergeant with a
background in infantry, logistics and administrative and
security training. He currently heads his own security firm
and is an adjunct faculty member with the University of New
Hampshire teaching seminars on home food production.-The
editors.

WHAT is a survivalist homestead? It is a home in which you
can live in a real-world/present-time economy and social
order, yet at the same time practice on a regular basis the
survival skills you may need later.

All of this is accomplished while still living a normal
life-style with access to work, schools, emergency services
and stores, etc. But most importantly, you will not be in
conflict with criminal, firearm or building codes, zoning
ordinances, EPA regulations or planning board requirements.

The survivalist homestead offers one more very important
option. That of helping you now to live a better quality
life at a cheaper price and allowing you to shift to more
severe survival plans only to the extent needed to meet
emergencies.

In planning a survivalist homestead there are three
concepts which must be incorporated into your thinking from
the start and which must be adhered to if the goals are to
be met. They are:

- Plan A and Plan B-Plan A is that part of all planning of
your homestead which has to do with dealing in the
present/real world time frame. Plan B is the planning for
whatever emergencies you feel could threaten you. Both
plans must be such that they can co-exist in the same place
at the same time.

- One Effort with Multiple Results- This concept is simply
"working smarter, not harder," fine tuned to an almost
absolute. Every effort must result in more than just the
one primary result. It allows you to accomplish more goals
with less expenditure of time and money, to facilitate the
first concept.

- Reduce, Re-use, Recycle- This concept is taken wholly
from the environmental movement. Re-using material and
recycling waste allows you to reduce expenses thus build
with less cash outlay. This is also a skill you will need
in any type of breakdown of social order, where normal
access to stores and services will not be available.

Applying these concepts in homestead planning is not the
first step. The first step is deciding what you are
planning for-what emergencies or crises you might have to
face.

This is subjective and no two people will feel that any one
set of possible emergencies will be what they have to be
ready for.

The process of thinking this through is called threat
analysis. Done correctly it can give you an accurate
picture of what it is you should be getting ready for. At
the end of my threat analysis I decided that the following
were what I wanted to be ready for:

1.Short term cash flow problems. 2.Severe weather
conditions. 3.Economic upheaval on a large scale.
4.Catastrophic world events.

The first task in establishing a homestead is to find the
land. You can eliminate many present-time and cirsis-time
security problems with proper site location. At the same
time the property should be located so that you have
reasonable access to work, entertainment, schools and
emergency services.

Other important considerations are taxes, community growth
plans, amount of land for your needs, zoning ordinances and
building codes in the area where you plan to buy.

I chose my property because it was large enough (15 acres),
had the right topography, available firewood, garden space,
animal space, hunting and potential for water. Also the
town has as part of its charter that the community will
remain rural with little growth, no heavy industry or
commerce and with farming as its main industry.

Crime, in normal times is a by product of growth and
population density in urban and suburban life, and
increased crime and civil disorder are the first results of
cultural breakdown. My location has been chosen to avoid
these to a great extent while still having reasonable
contact with the real world.

Finally my location allows me to use firearms, garden,
raise animals and build pretty much what I want for now and
the future because of the absence of myriad zoning
regulations and building codes that are found in so many
other communities today.

Security was at the top of my list of priorities in
planning my homestead on the land I acquired. A poorly laid
out homestead will result in one that is more difficult and
costly to secure in both normal and crisis times.

Just locating the house-compound on a hill went a long way
in avoiding problems with criminals now -Plan A-and in
possible lawless times-Plan B. The compound is hard to see
from the nearest road, especially in summer. It is
impossible to tell just what is on the hill unless you walk
or drive at least half way up the driveway. By this time a
would-be intruder or gang finds that the entire front of
the compound area is blocked by a marshland to the east,
extending a few hundred yards beyond my property line,
and a deep dug pond connected to a series of beaver ponds
that run nearly a half mile to the west beyond my property
line.

This fine example of an engineer water barrier is the
result of hard working beavers that moved onto the
adjoining property the same year I bought my parcel. Within
a few years they had backed up enough water to flood all
the aforementioned area except my driveway. The total cost
to me for this barrier was $600 to have the deep pond dug.
This system serves as a second source of water for
emergencies, irrigation , swimming, and draws a wide
variety of waterfowl, mammals, reptilles and fish which can
be a food supply- One Effort with Multiple Results.

The water barrier freezes in winter. To deny access to the
main compound all year round I knew I would have to install
some type of fence, which could be expensive. Instead, I
stacked brush and tree limbs from land-clearng operations
around the top edge of the hill on which my home-compound
was located-Reduce, Re-use, Recycle. This created an
instant barricade called an abatis. In most places it was
around three feet high and as much as eight feet wide.

The next year native New Hampshire blackberries, that grow
in abundance in the area, made their appearance and soon
formed a living flesh-tearing barbed wire barrier where the
brush had been stacked. Unlike a fence that deteriorates
and has to be maintained every year, my barrier just gets
thicker and stronger without me lifting a finger except to
cut it back here and there it also provides a good amount
of fresh fruit and attracts animals which, on occasion, end
up on the dining room table-One Effort with Multiple
Results.

In building my home I wanted a strong dwelling which was
also aesthetically pleasing, practical for day-to-day
living and would meet all the zoning and building codes and
yet would meet the emergencies I plan for.

Solar Heating-I used a lot of rough-cut lumber, stucco and
stone inside the house I used one-inch lumber instead of
sheet rock for the walls and ceilings because of its
structural strength.

The kitchen, living room, dining room and master bedroom
are on the south side of the house. This side has large
areas of glass windows to allow solar heating during the
colder months. The colder the season gets the lower the sun
is on the horizon. By Dec. 21, the sun floods almost
straight through the south windows, keeping the inside
temperature around 65 degrees F. By June21, the sun is now
high in the sky, adding little heat to the house during
warmer months.

Because solar gain heating can overheat a house in the day
time, there is a need for something to absorb the excess
heat during the day and radiate it back into the house
later on. This is called thermal mass. It is achieved by
having no basement and building instead on a concrete slab,
sometimes called a floating slab or a monolith slab.

For additional mass-and protection from gunfire if the need
should arise-I built a solid concrete block wall of
four-inch thick blocks almost the whole length of the
house.

This wall collects heat from the wood/coal stove to prevent
overheating of the north side rooms and then radiates it
back late at night. This stove except for the Ben Franklin
stove in the master bedroom which is used only
occasionally, is the only source of man-made heat we have
had for the past three winters

Plans for this year call for the addition of a propane gas
heating system. The gas system will be one that does not
rely on electricity to function. Once again if the heating
system is connected to house current the loss of
electricity means no heat. The wood/coal stove will be kept
for back-up, cooking and heating, and just for the pleasure
of a wood fire in the winter.

The north wall of the house is just the opposite, as far as
windows go, of the south wall. The smallest windows allowed
by code are placed here. These are the bathrooms, toilet
and bedrooms. These rooms remain empty most of the day and
do not need as much light. The smaller windows reduce heat
loss and restrict entry from the outside.

To further reduce heat loss the north wall is triple
insulated. Standard fiberglass was installed, then one-inch
rigid insulation over the studs, and 7/16-inch flake board
over the insulation there are no breaks in this barrier
except the windows, to allow heat to escape or cold wind to
infiltrate the house if desired.

Lastly, all closet space was built into the north wall to
create as much "dead space" as possible to further isolate
the heat in the house from radiational cooling.

Still Room, Root cellar, Work Shed-Once the main house was
up the still room, root cellar, and work shop/shed were
added.

 A still room was the part of a colonial home where
fermentation of home made brews, "kraut" making and
pickling were conducted. It was also used to store smoked
foods, beverages and other preserved items. I use ours for
most of the same reasons and it is also where the water
pressure system, well, washer and drier are located.

The dryer is vented through the root cellar by way of a
four-inch PVC pipe Part of the system is underground in the
root cellar which has a sand floor. This section of pipe
has holes in it so condensed moisture can drain into the
sand and humidify the root cellar when the drier is used.
The end of the pipe has a fixture that allows me to vent
the air outside when it is too warm in the cellar or vent
into the cellar when it is too cold.

Root cellars are generally constructed underground or in
hillsides. Mine is above ground because, with modern
insulating materials, it was just cost effective and time
saving to do so. In the cellar I can store appropriate food
stuffs to last until late spring when the following year's
crops start to come in. This is also a good place to store
jugs of water in the event we lose electricity.

The wood storage area at the entrance of the still room
holds about a half cord of firewood. With this entrance
facing south the sun hits the wood pile every day in the
winter, melting snow left on it after it is brought in from
outside storage. This means we can bring wood into the
house night or day and any weather without making a mess
all over the place with melting snow.

The summer kitchen is where all the initial cleaning of
garden and animal products takes place. All waste can go
directly to the compost heap. Waste water from the sink
goes directly to garden irrigation after passing through a
grease trap. The contents of the grease trap also go to the
compost heap.

The Well-Most wells are outside the home and at some
distance. Mine is unusual as it is in the still room of the
main house.

Few people have the well in a building, other than a small
pumphouse, because when the pump and pipe have to be
brought up for service, equipment and often a truck have to
be used to get the 150 or 200 feet of pipe-full of water-
and the pump up.

My well is 700 feet deep and a truck with the proper
equipment will be needed to haul everything up. For this
reason, the door leading to the outside lines up with the
well so the truck needs only to back up and start working.

Having the well in the still room also means there is no
chance of freeze ups or busting pipes that are at least
four feet underground. The well is also constantly under
lock and key where it cannot be tampered with. All of this
comes under Plan A should a disaster strike that is so far
reaching as to reduce our culture's technology to
pre-electrical days, I can remove the pump and pipe and
still reach my water in comfort and safety any time of the
year-Plan B. I would simply use a container just an inch or
so smaller in diameter than the 8 inch pipe well shaft. The
container has a flap valve on the bottom and is suspended
by a rope. As it is dropped through the water, the valve is
pushed open and the container fills. When pulled up the
force of the water pushes the valve back down and seats it
so the container stays full. Though the well is 700 feet
deep, the water level is only 35 feet from the top when it
is full. This gives me at 1 1/2 gallons per foot, about 800
gallons in reserve.

In New Hampshire, as in most states, you cannot get a
building permit with out a state approved septic system
plan. I applied Plan A by putting in a normal flush toilet
as the main one in the home and a composting toilet in the
master bedroom for back up-Plan B.

The composting toilet needs no special hook up except for a
vent through the roof. When you lose electricity that means
there is no well pump either, and thus no flush toilet. But
the composting one will still be functional for at least
three days.

Food-The only real answer to a reliable food supply during
bad times is to produce your own, or most of it, all the
time.

Producing your own food on a constant basis means you not
only have a constant source of reliable food, but you also
have the prepared land and facilities, tools and skills to
keep going. You can do it all, from planting a garden bed
to sowing, raising, cleaning, butchering and preserving
your produce, meats and fish.

The most common argument against the whole process of home
food production is the time involved, followed by cost.
While this is a subject which merits an entire article in
itself and there isn't enough space in this article to go
into it in depth,suffice it to say that if you have the
resources and time to establish your own home food
production, you will find it well worth your while.

I have to admit that the initial efforts to set up garden
space and small animal facilities is time consuming though
not necessarily expensive. But, the set up time is a
one-shot effort.

I have used many techniques-too numerous to include here-
for saving time, energy, and money in producing food.

In growing tomatoes in the garden area for example,
newsprint and grass clippings have been put down in the
tomato bed to prevent weeds from growing and reduce the
need to water.

For a few hours work a week in home food production from
late April through October, you can raise prepare and put
up (store) most of your food for a year. And doing so
reduces your cost of purchasing the same amounts and types
of food by half or more.

I have written a workbook on home food production and I am
in the process of getting it published. Send $1 (cash,
check or money order) and a stamped self-addressed business
envelope and I will send an outline of the workbook and its
contents which will show you how to calculate food needs,
food costs and production costs and gives some techniques
for gardening, animal husbandry and food preservation. Send
to R. Doucet, RR1, Box 3198, Wild Goose Pond Road,
Pittsfield, NH 03263

The lessons learned by early homesteaders still apply
today.
1. Analyze possible threats to you
2. Choose terrain that lends itself to defense.
3. Plan security around the principles of "Avoidance."
   "Deception" and "Denial."
4. Reduce costs and effort as well as help the environment,
   by following the concepts of "Plan A and Plan B, "One
   Effort with Multiple Results" and "Reduce, Re-use,
   Recycle."
5. Assure yourself good shelter, reliable water and
   constant food.

Think about this as you reflect on your own plans to
survive... now and later.

Notes from a Lecture on Fire Building


The primary means of starting fire for European cultures over the last 1000
years (possibly longer) has been flint and steel.  Building the flint and
steel fire has become one of the sporting events common to black powder
rendezvous.  Because of this flint and steel sets and the knowledge
required to use them are available to anyone who wants to learn the
technique.

The four items needed to start a flint and steel fire are:
1.  Flint, or some other hard rock.
2.  A fire steel.
3.  Something to catch sparks.
4.  Tinder.

Flint has been the traditional stone because it is hard, and
breaks into keen edged fragments.  Other stones will work, particularly the
quartz based minerals.  Look for stones that break into relatively flat
sections with sharp edges.

The steel is struck against the sharp edge of a hard stone which shaves
off very small splinters of steel which are heated white hot by friction.
To strike a fire hold the char on Top of the flint, close to the edge and
strike the stone with a long sweeping downward stroke of the steel.  Char
cloth can be wrapped around the stone.  When a spark catches in the char, a
small glowing spot will appear.  Blow on the spot gently and it will spread
into the char material.

The most critical is number 3, the spark catching material.  The most common
material is charred cotton or linen cloth.

Char cloth is produced by heating in a low oxygen environment, producing a
charcoal like substance.  Get a metal can that can be resealed.  Put the
cloth to be charred in the can and seal it.  Punch a small hole in the can
and put the whole mess in a fire.  Watch for smoke escaping through the
hole in the can.  When the smoke decreases slightly, remove the can from
the fire and stopper the hole with a nail or something.  After the can
cools, look at the cloth.  If it's dark brown, it wasn't heated long
enough.  If it falls apart at the slightest touch, it was heated to long.
Experiment.  The cloth needs to be 100% cotton, and free of dyes and other
synthetics.  The heavier the cloth, the better.

Another good material to treat in this way is very rotten punk wood.  Wood
so rotten that it can be broken off with your hands.  Maple is the
preferred wood, but others work well also.  Gather several different types
and see what works well.  Experiment.  Charred punk is not as consistant as
cloth, some will catch sparks very well, some won't at all.  If it does
catch, it is next to impossible to kill.  Don't throw away the charred punk
that won't catch sparks, it'll be useful later.

Char material will glow, but it does not produce an open flame.  That is
the job of the tinder.  Lay the glowing char in a birds next of fine dry
tinder.  Shredded paper, dry grass, and cedar bark all work well.  Gently
blow on the ember until the tinder bursts in to a flame.

On sunny days, a magnifying glass will get an ember going in the char
material very easily.  From there to getting the tinder going is no
problem.  The charred punk that you couldn't light with a spark will start
this way.

ANOTHER WAY - Bow and Drill

The four items needed to start a bow and drill fire are:
1.  The bow.
2.  Drill, or drills.
3.  A flat plank.
4.  A bearing block.
And some char material and tinder of course.

The first item required is a bow.  30" long and .5 to .75 inches thick.  A
little bit of flex, but nothing like an arrow casting bow.  Notch the ends
of the bow and tie on a heavy cord, leaving just enough slack to wrap the
cord around the drill.  Nylon boot laces work very well, but any cord will
wear out rather quickly.

Drills should be bone dry, with no pitch or oil.  Relatively soft drills
work better.  Western Red Cedar, Red Alder, and Willow work well.  Also try
White Cedar, Cottonwood, Birch, Aspen, and Poplars.  Drills should be 6 to
8 inches long, with the bark stripped off, and .5 to .75 inches thick.
Round one end, and make a blunt point on the other.

The flat plank should be 2 to 3 inches wide and .5 to .75 inches thick.  It
should be made from one of the woods used as a fire drill above.  Cut a
triangular notch roughly .25 inch into the fireboard, this is to catch the
sawdust.  At the point of the V gouge a small hole for the drill tip.  Work
with that notch.  To shallow and the dust forms a ring around the drill, to
narrow and the sawdust doesn't have the mass to support an ember.
Experiment.

Lastly, is the bearing block.  This is what you hold in your hand to hold
the top of the drill.  It should be slightly, or more bowl shaped, so the
the top of the drill doesn't wonder out.  Common materials are hollowed out
stones, hardwood knots, and carved bones.  The author recommends a one
ounce shot glass, as the shot glass is almost friction free when the drill
turns inside it.

Place something flat and dry under the fireboard (plank) to catch the ember
when it forms.  Wrap the cord around the drill.  Take shotglass in the
other hand to hold the top of the drill.  Put the point of the drill in the
small hole at the V.  Spin the drill with long smooth strokes of the bow.
Use moderate pressure.  You want some pressure to create friction.  In a
bit there should be smoke rising from the drill hole, and a wood dust pile
rising in the notch.  Watch the sawdust pile, and when it seems to be
smoking on it's own carefully lift out the drill.  If the sawdust
continues to smoke there is an ember in there that will burn its way
through the sawdust pile.

Now you can put some tinder on the pile and blow it into a flame, or light
a piece of char with the sawdust ember.  Since the sawdust pile is hard to
move, and easy to blow away, it is easier to light the char with it.
Again, this is a good use of punk wood that won't work with the flint and
steel.

The time to think of matchless fires is sometime before your match supply
runs out.  Collect the materials now, and they will be bone dry when you
need them.

Fear in the City, by Kurt Saxon


 Since I've been promoting survivalism I've been visited by 
dozens of TV crews, talked on dozens of radio shows and made 
several in-person TV talk and news programs.  I've also given 
numerous newspaper and magazine interviews.  All the others 
prominent in our field have likewise been interviewed by all 
segments of the media.  Many journalists write us up with no 
contact except what they read about us.
     A recurring theme runs through this media coverage.  Fear.  
But the funny thing is that, according to the media, we 
survivalists are the ones who are afraid.  We are portrayed as 
terrified, kill-crazy psychotics, unable to cope with city life.  
The hustle and bustle of urban life have somehow unhinged us.  
We've fled Heaven and each has sought his own rural Hell.
     We are literally holed up in our primitive wildernesses.  We 
are armed to the teeth against city people who would never leave 
paradise to threaten our poor homesteads.  We all preach doom and 
threaten all those who would share our wretchedness.
     Almost without exception, interviewers belabor the idea that 
we would shoot to defend ourselves.  No media representative visits 
me without insisting on seeing my arsenal.  Many of my 
non-survivalist neighbors have more weapons than I.  But they are 
collectors and hunters and I'm just a murderous fiend.
     One might ask; since most survivalists have left the cities 
and so are no danger to city folk, why the media blitz against 
urban dropouts?  Also, if city folk are right in believing they 
live in the best of all possible worlds, why don't they just ignore 
us?  Besides, it's unkind to make fun of us poor crazies afflicted 
with various forms of anxiety neuroses.
     It simply makes no sense for the media to be obsessed with 
urban dropouts unless the mere fact that we have withdrawn is a 
threat to the cities.  But, you see, we are a threat to the 
cities.  Brain drain.  White flight.  Eroding urban tax bases.  
Plain, gut-level jealousy towards those able to leave their 
respective Disneylands for dummies for cleaner, safer areas. I 
could go on and on.
     A big factor in painting us as vicious lunatics is to use us 
as an example of the kind of people who refuse to share the fate of 
those who stay behind.  We are the rats leaving the sinking ship.  
We are the non-supportive.  We can't stand the gaff.  We lack 
compassion for the social dependents we abandon on the doorsteps of 
those with a stake in the cities.  All this is simply because we 
refuse to be the victims of demanding parasites, muggers, burglars, 
etc.  Every one who leaves makes city folk more heavily taxed and 
more likely to be criminally assaulted, due to the decrease in 
potential victims.
     So the fear is not with us; it is with them.  The hostility is 
not from us; it is from them.  So it stands to reason that if they 
can convince others that we are degenerate goofs, less city folk 
will be inclined to imitate us.
     The following is a reprint of an example of naked fear.  Lynda 
Hurst is afraid and hostile.  So terrified, in fact that she has 
lost control and so writes like an addled hysteric.
     Although she had access to enough of my material to know that 
most of it is non-violent, she singled out that dealing with 
defense.  This was expected.  But to attack VICTORIA shows she is 
irrational.  The most telling line is, "Women who find uses for 
stale bread and are able to recognize alfalfa should be the first 
ones Kurt and the boys blow away".
     There's your key.  A hatred of competence and independence 
from the collective.  We "boys" might well blow away those who 
would loot us, but Lynda and her ilk would rather those of her own 
sex who are thrifty and self-reliant be destroyed.
     So let the Lynda Hursts rage against the competent on behalf 
of the parasitic.  Let them soil themselves while calling us 
fear-crazed.  Let them infer that survivalism is some sort of 
social treason.  They are the collective against the individual.  
The have-nots against the haves.  The doomed against the 
survivalists.  So when they criticize your morality, your courage, 
your patriotism, just consider the source.

The Fundamentals of Fallout


 Fallout   consists of dust particles that have been coated with  radioactive
by-products  from atomic explosions.   This occurs when the nuclear  or  atomic
blast  is a ground rather than air-burst (air-burst meaning that  the fireball
is   far  enough   from the earth's surface that there is  no  ground  material
uptake  into the high temperature portion of the mushroom cloud).   In an  air-
burst the bomb products condensate into such very small particles that they are
aloft  for  such a long time that they are mostly non-radioactive by  the  time
they  come  down,  typically months or years.  The fission  process  gives  off
hundreds  of  different  radioactive elements and isotopes.   Also,  a  certian
portion  of the fission mass does not fission.  The fussion portion of  nuclear
bombs  is  clean and gives off only helium, the atomic bomb  trigger  (fission)
which starts the nuclear bomb (fussion) is the portion of the bomb that  leaves
radioactive by-products.
   These   by-products   can  be classified  by  their  characteristics.    One
characteristic is half-life.   The half-life is the length of time it takes for
an element to give off one-half of its total radioactivity.  This would also be
the  length  of  time required for a given amount to  change  to  one-half  the
radioactive  level, in other words if something was giving off  radiation  that
would yield 3 Rads/hours, after one half-life it would give off 1.5  Rads/hour.
An unstable  isotope  only  emits radioactivity  when  one  atom   decays   to 
another  isotope  or element (which may or not be stable,   stable  being  non-
radioactive).    Therefore  the  portions of the element that are  not  in  the
process  of  decaying  are  not  giving  off  any radioactivity.   If you  have
"X"  number of atoms of a radioactive element,  "X/2" of those atoms will  give
off their radioactivity in the half-life period and become a different  element
or isotope.  If an element has a half-life of 1 day, a given amount of it  will
give off 1/2 of its total radiation during the 1st day,  1/4  during the second
day,  1/8 the 3rd day,  1/16th the 4th, 1/32 the 5th, 1/64 the 6th, 1/128th the
7th,  et cetra. If you have a short half-life like Iodine 131  of 8, days  most
of  the radioactivity (99+%) will be emitted in two months.   In a  long  half-
life element like plutonium 239 with a 24,400 year half-life,  1,000,000  atoms
would in 24,400 years give of 1/2 of their radioactivity  leaving 500,000 atoms
of plutonium 239 at the end of those 24,400 years.  500,000 decays over  24,400
years equals approx. 21 decays per one year.
   Another characteristic is the type of radiation given off, Alpha, Beta, or
Gamma radiation.  Neutron radiation is only given off by the actual blast 
itself and is not given off by the fallout itself.  Only neutron radiation
can MAKE something that is not radioactive become radioactive.  This is why 
fallout can not cause something (like food inside a can) to become radioactive.
Alpha, beta, and gamma radiation can NOT make anything become radioactive.
Alpha radiation (helium nucleus,  2 protrons and  2  neutrons),  like  from 
plutonium, can be shielded with one layer of Cellophane or newspaper or several
inches of air.   Beta radiation (an electron) can  be  shielded  by  a layer of
drywall, or several feet of air.  Gamma radiation is electromagnetic radiation.
Neutron radiation is a neutron and is about twice as hard to stop as Gamma.
Gamma and neutron are harder to stop, you need several feet of dirt or 
concrete to absorb them. See below for specifics for stopping Gamma radiation.
   One  factor  that most people don't realize about fallout is   how  fast  it
decays.   Fallout follows the t-1.2 law which states that for  every  sevenfold
increase in time after detonation there is a tenfold drop in radiation output.
Example,  a  reading of X level of radioactivity at Y  hours  after  detonation
would  indicate a level of radioactivity of .1X at 7Y hours  after  detonation.
This  is  accurate  for  2,500  hours  (14  weeks)  following  the   explosion,
thereafter  the doserate is lower  than  t-1.2 would predict.   Example,  if  a
dose  rate of 100 REM/hr was found at 1 hour after detonation(this assumes  all
significant  fallout  from the bomb has fallen,  therefore  starting  with  the
seven hour point  is  probably  more realistic) would be 10 REM/hr at 7  hours,
1  REM/hr at 49 hours(2 days),  .1 REM/hr at 343 hours(2 weeks), .01 REM/hr  at
2401 hours (14 weeks).  A "survival safe" dose of radiation (this being defined
as no short term effects or disability) is  3 to 12 Rads/day. This dose rate of
3-12 Rads/day can only be taken to an accumulated dose of 150-200 rads if  done
day  after  day. This would occur (assume 6 Rads/day) in this  example  at  150
hours  for 24 hour exposure,  or at 49 hours for a 6 hours per day  outside  of
shelter.  Note though that since the level of activity is decreasing  the  time
spent  outside every day would increase.  If you increase the  radiation  by  a
factor of 10 for another  example would be where you would have 1,000 Rem/hr at
1 hr, 100 Rem/hr at 7 hrs., 1 Rem/hr at 343 hrs., .1 Rem/hr at 2401 hrs. The 24
hour  exposure would be at 1,000 hours(41 days) and 6 hour work day outside  of
shelter at 300 hours(12 days).
   For various levels of contamination a "no short term effects" dose of 6 Rads
per day would be something like this: (for 80 col. printout)(measurements at 
boundries of the oval shaped pattern)
 
Hours from   Dose rate   Hours of "safe" work outside per day, medical effect
explosion   
   EXAMPLE A   An area 10 miles wide by 30 miles downwind directly downwind
               from of a missle field that gets dozens of hits
1 hr.      10,000 R/hr  None, 100% dead at 6 minutes of exposure
7 hrs.      1,000 R/hr  None, 100% dead at 1 hour of exposure
2 days        100 R/hr  None, 50% dead within 3-4 hour continuous exposure
2 weeks        10 R/hr  36 minutes. 50% dead for 2 day continuous exposure.
14 wks(3 mo)    1 R/hr  6 hours/day. 50% dead for 1 month continuous exposure
                        5% dead for 15 day continuous exposure, no medical care
                        and no deaths for 1 week continuous exposure.
   EXAMPLE B  An area 10 miles wide by 30 miles downwind of a single 1 MT
              ground burst
1 hr        1,000 R/hr  None, 100% dead at 1 hour of exposure
7 hrs.        100 R/hr  None, 50% dead within 7-8 hour of continuous exposure
2 days         10 R/hr  36 minutes. 50% dead for 5 days of continuous exposure.
2 week          1 R/hr  6 hours/day. 50% dead for 1 month continuous exposure.
14 weeks      0.1 R/hr  All day.  0% deaths from radiation hereafter.
    EXAMPLE C An area 12 miles wide by 95 miles downwind for a single 1 MT
              ground burst
1 hr         radiation has not arrived yet.
7 hrs.         50 R/hr  12 minutes, 50% dead for 18 hour continuous exposure
2 days          5 R/hr. 1 hour, 5% dead for 2 week continuous exposure
2 weeks       0.5 R/hr  12 hours/day.
14 weeks     0.05 R/hr  Unlimited.
  The above three examples indicate conditions and exposures that would only
be acceptable in wartime.  In these examples the wind is continuous in
direction and velocity.  A real wind would not make such nice neat ovals.  It
should be noted that even in real wind conditions, marching perpendicular to
the depositing wind will remove you from a individual fallout zone.

  Here is an example of the levels of contamination from a single 1 MT ground
burst with a 15 MPH wind
Area downwind Arrival  Accumulated total radiation dose   Dose Rate in Rads/hr
(boundries)   time for                                          at
in miles      fallout  1 week  4 weeks  15 weeks  100 yrs 7 hrs. 2 days(14 hrs)
33 x 7        1.5 hrs  3000 R  3300 R   3600 R    4600 R  100 R/hr   10 R/hr
95 x 12       5 hrs.   900 R   1200 R   1400 R    1700 R  ~50 R/hr    5 R/hr
160 x 18      10 hrs.  300 R   400 R    460 R     650 R not there yet 2 R/hr
245 x 20      16 hrs   90 R    120 R    150 R     240 R not there yet 0.7 R/hr

   For shelter from Gamma radiation the standard rule of thumb is 150 pounds of
mass per square foot of cross section of shelter wall yields a PF, protection
factor, of 40.  This means if you had two shelters on a flat contaminated field
with  one  having walls of one layer of cellophane and the other of  walls  and
ceiling  of  something that had for its thickness 150 lbs/sq.  ft.(  note  this
would  be  a thickness of 2.5" of lead, 4" of steel, 12" of  concrete,  18"  of
soil,  30" of water, 200' of air) you would recieve 1/40th the dose in the  150
lb/sq.ft. walled shelter.  This effect can be multiplied.  If the sq. ft. cross
section  was  300  lbs.  that would be 1/40th of 1/40th  or  1/1,600th  of  the
unprotected  dose.   Take for example a dose rate starting at 100 Rem/hr  at  1
hr.,10Rem/hr  at 7 hrs.,1 Rem/hr at 49 hours,  etc.  If exposure started  at  1
hour the total dose would be 240 R in 1 day, 310 R in 1 week, 350 R in 4 weeks,
390  R in 15 weeks.  The same in a PF 40 shelter would be 6 R in 1 day,  7.7  R
in  1  week,   8.7 R in 4 weeks.  The difference would  be  5%  fatalities-most
others  suffering from nausea and taking about 1 month to recover  without  the
protection  versus  0% fatalities-0% sickness with protection of PF40  in  this
case.

PROTECTING YOURSELF FROM EMP


 EMP.  The letters spell burnt out computers and other electrical systems
and perhaps even a return to the dark ages if it were to mark the beginning of
a nuclear war.  But it doesn't need to be that way.  Once you understand EMP,
you can take a few simple precautions to protect yourself and equipment from
it.  In fact, you can enjoy much of the "high tech" life style you've come
accustomed to even after the use of a nuclear device has been used by ter-
rorists--or there is an all-out WWIII.    

 EMP (Electro-Magnetic Pulse), also sometimes known as "NEMP"  (Nuclear
Electromagnetic Pulse), was kept secret from the public for a long time and was
first discovered more or less by accident when US Military tests of nuclear
weapons started knocking out phone banks and other equipment miles from ground
zero.

 EMP is no longer "top secret" but information about it is still a little
sketchy and hard to come by.  Adding to the problems is the fact that its
effects are hard to predict; even electronics designers have to test their
equipment in powerful EMP simulators before they can be sure it is really
capable of with standing the effect.

 EMP occurs with all nuclear explosions.  With smaller explosions the
effects are less pronounced.  Nuclear bursts close to the ground are dampened
by the earth so that EMP effects are more or less confined to the region of the
blast and heat wave.  But EMP becomes more pronounced and wide spread as the
size and altitude of a nuclear blast is increased since the ground; of these
two, altitude is the quickest way to produce greater EMP effects.  As a nuclear
device is exploded higher up, the earth soaks up fewer of the free electrons
produced before they can travel some distance.  

 The most "enhanced" EMP effects would occur if a nuclear weapon were
exploded in space, outside the Earth's atmosphere.  In such a case, the gamma
radiation released during the flash cycle of the weapon would react with the
upper layer of the earth's atmosphere and strip electrons free from the air
molecules, producing electromagnetic radiation similar to broad-band radio
waves (10 kHz-100 MHz) in the process.  These electrons would follow the
earth's magnetic field and quickly circle toward the ground where they would be
finally dampened.  (To add to the confusion, we now have two more EMP terms: 
"Surface EMP" or "SEMP" which refers to ground bursts with limited-range
effects and "High-altitude EMP" or "HEMP" which is the term used for a nuclear
detonation creating large amounts of EMP.)

 Tactically, a space-based nuclear attack has a lot going for it; the
magnetic field of the earth tends to spread out EMP so much that just one 20-MT
bomb exploded at an altitude of 200 miles could--in theory--blanket the
continental US with the effects of EMP.  It's believed that the electrical
surge of the EMP from such an explosion would be strong enough to knock out
much of the civilian electrical equipment over the whole country.  Certainly
this is a lot of "bang for the buck" and it would be foolish to think that a
nuclear attack would be launched without taking advantage of the confusion a
high-altitude explosion could create.  Ditto with its use by terrorists should
the technology to get such payloads into space become readily available to
smaller countries and groups.

 But there's no need for you to go back to the stone age if a nuclear war
occurs.  It is possible to avoid much of the EMP damage that could be done to
electrical equipment--including the computer that brought this article to you--
with just a few simple precautions.

 First of all, it's necessary to get rid of a few erroneous facts, however.

 One mistaken idea is that EMP is like a powerful bolt of lightning.  While
the two are alike in their end results--burning out electrical equipment with
intense electronic surges--EMP is actually more akin to a super-powerful radio
wave.  Thus, strategies based on using lightning arrestors or lightning-rod
grounding techniques are destined to failure in protecting equipment from EMP.

 Another false concept is that EMP "out of the blue" will fry your brain
and/or body the way lightning strikes do.  In the levels created by a nuclear
weapon, it would not pose a health hazard to plants, animals, or man PROVIDED
it isn't concentrated.  

 EMP can be concentrated.  

 That could happen if it were "pulled in" by a stretch of metal.  If this
happened, EMP would be dangerous to living things.  It could become concen-
trated by metal girders, large stretches of wiring (including telephone lines),
long antennas, or similar set ups.  So--if a nuclear war were in the offing--
you'd do well to avoid being very close to such concentrations.  (A safe
distance for nuclear-generated EMP would be at least 8 feet from such stretches
of metal.)   

 This concentration of EMP by metal wiring is one reason that most e-
lectrical equipment and telephones would be destroyed by the electrical surge. 
It isn't that the equipment itself is really all that sensitive, but that the
surge would be so concentrated that nothing working on low levels of electric-
ity would survive.  

 Protecting electrical equipment is simple if it can be unplugged from AC
outlets, phone systems, or long antennas.  But that assumes that you won't be
using it when the EMP strikes.  That isn't all that practical and--if a nuclear
war were drawn out or an attack occurred in waves spread over hours or days--
you'd have to either risk damage to equipment or do without it until things had
settled down for sure.

 One simple solution is to use battery-operated equipment which has cords
or antennas of only 30 inches or less in length.  This short stretch of metal
puts the device within the troughs of the nuclear-generated EMP wave and will
keep the equipment from getting a damaging concentration of electrons. 
Provided the equipment isn't operated close to some other metal object (i.e.,
within 8 feet of a metal girder, telephone line, etc.), it should survive
without any other precautions being taken with it.

 If you don't want to buy a wealth of batteries for every appliance you own
or use a radio set up with longer than 30-inch antenna, then you'll need to use
equipment that is "hardened" against EMP.

 The trick is that it must REALLY be hardened from the real thing, not just
EMP-proof on paper.  This isn't all that easy; the National Academy of Sciences
recently stated that tailored hardening is "not only deceptively difficult,
but also very poorly understood by the defense-electronics community."  Even
the US Military has equipment which might not survive a nuclear attack, even
though it is designed to do just that.

 That said, there are some methods which will help to protect circuits
from EMP and give you an edge if you must operate ham radios or the like when a
nuclear attack occurs.  Design considerations include the use of tree formation
circuits (rather than standard loop formations); the use of induction shielding
around components; the use of self-contained battery packs; the use of loop
antennas; and (with solid-state components) the use of Zener diodes.  These
design elements can eliminate the chance an EMP surge from power lines or long
antennas damaging your equipment.  Another useful strategy is to use grounding
wires for each separate instrument which is coupled into a system so that EMP
has more paths to take in grounding itself.  

 A new device which may soon be on the market holds promise in allowing
electronic equipment to be EMP hardened.  Called the "Ovonic threshold device",
it has been created by Energy Conversion Devices of Troy, MI.  The Ovonic
threshold device is a solid-state switch capable of quickly opening a path to
ground when a circuit receives a massive surge of EMP.  Use of this or a
similar device would assure survival of equipment during a massive surge of
electricity.

 Some electrical equipment is innately EMP-resistant.  This includes
large electric motors, vacuum tube equipment, electrical generators, trans-
formers, relays, and the like.  These might even survive a massive surge of EMP
and would likely to survive if a few of the above precautions were taking in
their design and deployment.  

 At the other end of the scale of EMP resistance are some really sensitive
electrical parts.  These include IC circuits, microwave transistors, and Field
Effect Transistors (FET's).  If you have electrical equipment with such com-
ponents, it must be very well protected if it is to survive EMP.  

 One "survival system" for such sensitive equipment is the Faraday box. 

 A Faraday box is simply a metal box designed to divert and soak up the
EMP.  If the object placed in the box is insulated from the inside surface of
the box, it will not be effected by the EMP traveling around the outside metal
surface of the box.  The Faraday box simple and cheap and often provides more
protection to electrical components than "hardening" through circuit designs
which can't be (or haven't been) adequately tested.

 Many containers are suitable for make-shift Faraday boxes:  cake boxes,
ammunition containers, metal filing cabinets, etc., etc., can all be used. 
Despite what you may have read or heard, these boxes do NOT have to be air-
tight due to the long wave length of EMP; boxes can be made of wire screen or
other porous metal.  

 The only two requirements for protection with a Faraday box are:  (1) the
equipment inside the box does NOT touch the metal container (plastic, wadded
paper, or cardboard can all be used to insulate it from the metal) and (2) the
metal shield is continuous without any gaps between pieces or extra-large holes
in it.  

 Grounding a Faraday box is NOT necessary and in some cases actually may be
less than ideal.  While EMP and lightning aren't the "same animal", a good
example of how lack of grounding is a plus can be seen with some types of
lightning strikes.  Take, for example, a lightning strike on a flying air-
plane.  The strike doesn't fry the plane's occupants because the metal shell of
the plane is a Faraday box of sorts.  Even though the plane, high over the
earth, isn't grounded it will sustain little damage.  

 In this case, much the same is true of small Faraday cages and EMP. 
Consequently, storage of equipment in Faraday boxes on wooden shelves or the
like does NOT require that everything be grounded.  (One note:  theoretically
non-grounded boxes might hold a slight charge of electricity; take some time
and care before handling ungrounded boxes following a nuclear attack.)  

 The thickness of the metal shield around the Faraday box isn't of much
concern, either.  This makes it possible to build protection "on the cheap" by
simply using the cardboard packing box that equipment comes in along with
aluminum foil.  Just wrap the box with the aluminum foil (other metal foil or
metal screen will also work); tape the foil in place and you're done.  Provided
it is kept dry, the cardboard will insulate the gear inside it from the foil;
placing the foil-wrapped box inside a larger cardboard box is also wise to be
sure the foil isn't accidentally ripped anywhere.  The result is an "instant"
Faraday box with your equipment safely stored inside, ready for use following a
nuclear war.

 Copper or aluminum foil can help you insulate a whole room from EMP
as well.  Just paper the wall, ceiling and floor with metal foil.  Ideally the
floor is then covered with a false floor of wood or with heavy carpeting to
insulate everything and everyone inside from the shield (and EMP).  The only
catch to this is that care must be taken NOT to allow electrical wiring
connections to pierce the foil shield (i.e., no AC powered equipment or radio
antennas can come into the room from outside).  Care must also be taken that
the door is covered with foil AND electrically connected to the shield with a
wire and screws or some similar set up.

 Many government civil defense shelters are now said to have gotten the
Faraday box, "foil" treatment.  These shelters are covered inside with metal
foil and have metal screens which cover all air vents and are connected to the
metal foil.  Some of these shelters probably make use of new optical fiber
systems--protected by plastic pipe--to "connect" communications gear inside the
room to the "outside world" without creating a conduit for EMP energy to enter
the shelter. 

 Another "myth" that seems to have grown up with information on EMP is that
nearly all cars and trucks would be "knocked out" by EMP.  This seems logical,
but is one of those cases where "real world" experiments contradict theoretical
answers and I'm afraid this is the case with cars and EMP.  According to
sources working at Oak Ridge National Laboratory, cars have proven to be
resistant to EMP in actual tests using nuclear weapons as well as during more
recent tests (with newer cars) with the US Military's EMP simulators.

 One reason for the ability of a car to resist EMP lies in the fact that
its metal body is "insulated" by its rubber tires from the ground.  This
creates a Faraday cage of sorts.  (Drawing on the analogy of EMP being similar
to lightning, it is interesting to note that cases of lightning striking and
damaging cars is almost non-existent; this apparently carries over to EMP
effects on vehicles as well.)

 Although Faraday boxes are generally made so that what is inside doesn't
touch the box's outer metal shield (and this is especially important for the
do-it-yourselfer since it is easy to inadvertently ground the Faraday box--say
by putting the box on metal shelving sitting on a concrete floor), in the
case of the car the "grounded" wiring is grounded only to the battery.  In
practice, the entire system is not grounded in the traditional electrical
wiring sense of actually making contact to the earth at some point in its
circuitry.  Rather the car is sitting on insulators made of rubber.

 It is important to note that cars are NOT 100 percent EMP proof; some cars
will most certainly be effected, especially those with fiberglass bodies or
located near large stretches of metal.  (I suspect, too, that recent cars with
a high percentage of IC circuitry might also be more susceptible to EMP
effects.)

 The bottom line is that all vehicles probably won't be knocked out by
EMP.  But the prudent survivalist should make a few contingency plans "just in
case" his car (and other electrical equipment) does not survive the effects of
EMP.  Discovering that you have one of the few cars knocked out would not be a
good way to start the onset of terrorist attack or nuclear war.  

 Most susceptable to EMP damage would be cars with a lot of IC circuits or
other "computers" to control essential changes in the engine.  The very prudent
may wish to buy spare electronic ignition parts and keep them a car truck
(perhaps inside a Faraday box).  But it seems probable that many vehicles WILL
be working following the start of a nuclear war even if no precautions have
been taken with them.

 One area of concern are explosives connected to electrical discharge
wiring or designed to be set off by other electric devices.  These might be
set off by an EMP surge.  While most citizens don't have access to such
equipment, claymore mines and other explosives would be very dangerous to be
around at the start of a nuclear box if they weren't carefully stored away in a
Faraday box.  Ammunition, mines, grenades and the like in large quantities
might be prone to damage or explosion by EMP, but in general aren't all that
sensitive to EMP.

 A major area of concern when it comes to EMP is nuclear reactors located
in the US.  Unfortunately, a little-known Federal dictum prohibits the NRC from
requiring power plants to withstand the effects of a nuclear war.  This means
that, in the event of a nuclear war, many nuclear reactors' control systems
might will be damaged by an EMP surge.  In such a case, the core-cooling
controls might become inoperable and a core melt down and breaching of the
containment vessel by radioactive materials into the surrounding area might
well result.  (If you were needing a reason not to live down wind from a
nuclear reactor, this is it.)

 Provided you're not next door to a nuclear power plant, most of the ill
effects of EMP can be over come.  EMP, like nuclear blasts and fallout, can be
survived if you have the know how and take a few precautions before hand.  

 And that would be worth a lot, wouldn't it?