Tuesday, 28 February 2012

How To Add Related Posts List Below Your Post In Blogger Blogs?


For WordPress blogs displaying related posts below posts isn’t a  very difficult task. Just install a few plugins, activate them and your work is done.
But the case is different for Blogger.Com blogs. Here we have to do a lot more work. I mean to say that it is little complicated than doing the same in WordPress. Lets Move Forward.
related-posts-widget-blogger
Follow these steps given below:-

(If You Want To Display Related Posts In Your Sidebar)

1.) Click the button displayed below.
 
2.) Move the widget to your desired position i.e. where you want it to be displayed. You can also optionally shift this widget below “Blog Posts Widget Column”. This will make the related posts list display below the Blog Comments.
3.) Now without a second thought visit any of your posts and see this in action. Remember this widget will not display in homepage. 

(If You Want To Display Related Posts Below Post Content)

1.) Go to Layout.
2.) Go to Edit HTML.
3.) Go to Edit Template.
4.) First back up your template. Do not skip this. If the trick does not work, you can restore back to your previous theme using your theme back up.
5.) Check Expand Widget Templates.
You will find a line,
<div class="post-footer-line post-footer-line-3">
6.) After its  </div> tag type,
<div id="related_posts">
7.) Go to the end of the code. You will find,
</body>
8.) Just before these paste,
<script src='http://www.google.com/jsapi'/>
<script src='http://brps.appspot.com/brps.js' type='text/javascript'/>

Monday, 27 February 2012

How-To: Set up a home file server using FreeNAS



In today's digital world we've all got data, and lots of it. Our libraries are also growing rapidly: where you used to get by setting aside a few bookshelves for your books, CDs, DVDs and VHS tapes, we now require untold server space to preserve our beloved media in digitized form. We also want our data to be itinerant, or at least seem that way. That is, if you want to take a book or disc to another room of your abode, you pull it from the bookshelf and take it with you. Similarly, if you're working on a document upstairs on your desktop and you want to move to the den with your laptop, you'll need the proper infrastructure working in the background to enable that kind of wizardry. So, how can we create this "digital bookshelf?" Can you go out and buy it now? Can you build it in your garage? As it turns out, the answer is "yes" on all counts. You could go out and buy a Drobo device but in this case, we're going to assemble our own. And we're going to do that with the help of an open source storage platform called FreeNAS. So how involved a process is that? Meet us after the break to find out.

What is FreeNAS you say? Put simply, it's is an operating system based on FreeBSD that brings with it a snazzy web interface for management, and all the protocols you need to share files between Windows, Mac and Linux. In other words, a perfect solution for your digital bookshelf. Let's get to it.

Here's what you'll need, hardware-wise:
  • A 64-bit Intel or AMD processor. (While FreeNAS does support 32-bit environments, you'll want 64-bit to utilize the ZFS file system to it's potential. More on that later.)
  • A system board with a decent amount of SATA ports.
  • At least 4GB of RAM. FreeNAS documentation recommends a minimum of 6GB of RAM for best performance with ZFS. We found 4GB worked just fine. A general rule of thumb is 1GB of RAM for every 1TB of storage.
  • At least three SATA hard drives. (As with RAM, the more hard drives you have, the better.)
  • One CAT5 cable. (This thing needs to connect to your home network, obviously.)
  • One USB thumb drive to install the FreeNAS OS image.
  • One blank CD-R / CD-RW for writing the FreeNAS ISO in preparation for the installation.
  • Oh yeah, the 64-bit FreeNAS ISO image itself, which you can snag here. (Version 8.0.3-p1 at the time of this writing.)
However, since the economy is tough and budgets are tight, we wanted to show that you don't necessarily need the bee's knees of hardware to get FreeNAS up and running. We had the following components lying around, and they worked stupendously:
  • One AMD Phenom 8650 triple-core CPU
  • 4GB RAM (2x 2GB DIMMS)
  • Gigabyte GMA-MA770-UP3 System Board
  • One 150GB SATA DRIVE
  • One 250GB SATA DRIVE
  • One 80GB SATA DRIVE
  • One 8GB SanDisk Cruzer USB thumb drive
  • One CD / DVD-ROM combo drive
Sidenote: Drives are supremely important here. Ideally, you would have at least five 1TB SATA HDDs and a separate SSD for the ZFS Intent Log (ZIL). If you wanted to take it one step further, you could mirror the ZIL with two solid-state drives. This would provide a very redundant and high-performing NAS. However, the scope of this how-to is strictly getting a cheap FreeNAS environment up and running with the most basic of hardware. Especially since flooding in the Asia-Pacific areas have caused HD prices to nearly double in price, 1TB drives do not come cheap compared to a year ago.

If you're one of those extremely cautious people who has to double check everything, here's a URL to the FreeNAS hardware requirements. We recommend you at least glance at them if you're going to go out and hunt down shiny new hardware.

Once you've got your hardware squared away we have to get some things out in the open:
  • FreeNAS needs to be installed on a USB drive separate from the disks you intend to use for your storage volumes. Put simply, if you were to install FreeNAS (which only requires 2GB of storage) on a spankin' new 1TB HD, you'd lose 1022GB of said hard disk. FreeNAS can not utilize the drive on which it's installed for storage. So, that's why you need that USB stick.
  • Think about where you want to keep your FreeNAS box. Once you install the OS you can throw the box in a closet with power and a network connection, and let 'er run. Once the initial setup is complete, you can manage the configuration using the web interface. Just a thought.
  • Forget about WiFi. We know your little wheels are spinning -- just forget it. Trust us on this one.
Other than those three items, there's not much more to worry about -- it's time to install FreeNAS. To make things extra simple, we'll break this into numbered steps for you.

FreeNAS Installation
1. The very first step is to download the FreeNAS ISO image and burn it to a blank CD-R/CD-RW. You can get the file here.


2. Place the USB stick into a USB port that's attached directly to your system board. Don't insert it into one of those front panel sockets; to be safe it should be in the back of the PC. Yours truly had some weird results using front panel USB ports, which included installations crashing and very slow operation.

3. Power up your machine and head directly to your BIOS config. Do not pass go, do not collect $200. We have to be sure to set the boot devices in the proper order. Since BIOS options vary from device to device, here's the basic the order you want: CD/DVD drive, USB HDD, disable all other devices. Save your settings, place the freshly baked CD in your drive and reboot.

4. If everything went well with the last step you should now be booting to the first bootloader. You'll see some text scrolling and gibberish like so:


Next you'll get to the bootloader, which looks like this:


5. At this point you can either press Enter or allow the timer to count down. Whichever you choose, you'll end up in the actual FreeNAS installer here:


You'll be selecting the first option:"Install / Upgrade..."


6. Odds are your device will be listed as da0 on this screen as well. Double check the description and size to be sure. As you can see, in our case it plainly reads, "SanDisk Cruzer 8.02 -- 7.5GiB," the name of our USB Stick. Select your device and press Enter.


7. The installer here gives us a nice little warning which states that all data will be wiped from your drive for installation. Hit "Yes" to proceed.


8. As soon as you press Enter you'll notice the dialogue beginning at the bottom of the screen. Man, that's flashy. Eventually, you'll see a message reassuring you the installation is complete and that it's time to reboot again.


9. It does as it's told. Hit Enter and remove the CD from your drive so you boot to your newly minted FreeNAS installation. Once your computer reboots, you'll be inside the FreeNAS OS.


At this point, if you see this screen, go ahead and let out a single "woot!" You deserve it. Congratulations, you've now got FreeNAS installed. Okay, now get a hold of yourself, as we've still gotta carve out some disk volumes and share 'em.

Create disc volumes

1. Make note of the next-to-last line on the screen (highlighted in green below): http://192.168.11.48/. That's telling us the URL through which we can access the FreeNAS management interface.


Sidenote: By default, FreeNAS utilizes DHCP for obtaining IP addresses; your IP is almost certainly going to be different. In most home environments, DHCP is used for serving out IP addresses, so it's easiest to leave the FreeNAS configuration as is to avoid any IP conflicts on your home network. If a storm knocks out power to your home and everything reboots, you may have to check this screen again if your DHCP client tables gets wiped out, as the address may change. If you happen to be running a network where you statically set IP addresses, good for you. You'll of course need to set a static address on your FreeNAS system by choosing option one on the Console Setup Screen. We won't cover configuring static addresses in this how-to, so you're on your own there.

2. Let's open up the management interface now. From another computer on your network, open up a web browser and enter the address you see on your FreeNAS machine. You should see this:


3. Notice in the top right you see that red "Alert" light blinking. Click it now.

FreeNAS is warning us there's no password. Thanks, FreeNAS! Anyway, let's go ahead and set one. Select "Account" over on the left, then "My Account", then "Change Password". Enter a password that's not "password" and click "Change Admin.." Simple enough, right?

Create a user
Next up, we need to create a regular, non-administrator user. In the left menu, expand "Account", then "Users" and click "Add User." Fill in the details required: username, real name and password, with the primary group set to "wheel." (We complete this step on the off chance you'll get prompted for credentials when you connect to your share later on.)



With that business out of the way, it's time to set up our disks and file sharing. But first, we need to make sure you understand two key points. For starters, FreeNAS supports two types of file systems and three sharing protocols. Let's discuss the two file systems first.
  • UFS. An old stand-by, the Unix File System. Don't get us wrong, it's a solid system; we just don't want to use it here. For one thing, it lacks the volume management, RAID and pooling options we can get with our second option, ZFS.
  • ZFS. The hot new kid on the block. This is the file system we want to use, mostly because of ZFS' data integrity, which promises safer, more resilient storage. Not an insignificant factor if you're trying to preserve a lifetime's worth of photos, or hundreds of tracks that cost you $0.99 apiece. We could spend a great deal of time talking about ZFS, but that's a topic for another day. For now, let's get on with it and talk about FreeNAS' sharing protocols.
As we said, FreeNAS supports three sharing methods:
  • CIFS/SAMBA. Open-source implementation of Microsoft's SMB (Now mainly referred to as CIFS)
  • AFP. Apple Filing Protocol
  • NFS. Network File System
All three of these have their advantages and trade-offs. For simplicity's sake, we're going to show you how to set up a CIFS share. This is because Windows, OS X and your favorite GNU/Linux distro all offer support for this protocol out of the box.

1. First, we have to set up our disk volumes. In the left menu, expand "Storage," then "Volumes" and select "Create Volume." You should see this screen:


Before you check any disks, give the volume a name and click "ZFS." This will show the ZFS Extra section. Notice iyou can select None, Log, Cache or Spare for each disk listed. You would use these options if you wished to host your ZFS Log data or cache on a separate drive, like an SSD, to increase performance. The spare option would allow the drive to operate as a backup in the event one of the other drives failed. For the purpose of this guide, we'll leave them all set to "None."


2. Check all of the disks in the "Member disks" section.

  • Notice the "Group Type" there? FreeNAS is asking us what type of volume we want. Since we only have three disks, our available options are: ZFS Mirror, ZFS Stripe or RAID-Z. Remember, we aren't focusing on UFS file systems here.
  • A ZFS mirrored volume would create a volume of the three drives above limited to the space of the smallest drive. So, we'd get a 71.4GB volume that had a one-to-one copy on our 250GB drive and 160GB drive. In case one of the drives died, we'd still have a backup copy on the other. This would be a poor choice with the combination of drives we're using, since we'd lose so much available storage. Also not a wise choice with the availability of RAID-Z.
  • A striped volume creates a volume which has an available size of all disks combined. So in this case we'd get 442.5GB of storage available, with no redundancy. Not the best setup for redundancy, because if a drive fails, your volume goes offline and you'll have possible data loss. Always remember: it's never a question of if a hard drive will fail, but when. This is, however, the best setup for providing the maximum amount of storage space.
  • A RAID-Z1 Volume, in the most basic of terms, is an advanced mirror. Yours truly could write a whitepaper on RAID-Z, but it's really beyond the scope of this how-to. However, this is the best option if you've got at least three drives of the same size.
In our case, we'll go with ZFS Stripe. If you have a better disk setup than us -- say, three 1TB drives -- you'll want to choose RAID-Z or ZFS Stripe with two drives and configure the third drive as a spare in the ZFS Extra settings.

Finishing up

At last, we click "Add volume" and the volume is created. Next, change the permissions on that volume so that anyone can read and write to it.

1. On the left, under Storage > Volumes, you should now see it listed as /mnt/myvolname, where "myvolname" is the name you gave to your newly minted volume. In our case, it's /mnt/data. Expand that menu and click "Change Permissions."

2. Under the "Mode" section, select both unchecked boxes beside "Write" and select "Set permission recursively."

3. Click the "Change" button to set the permissions.

Now it's time to share that volume and get on with the exciting business of saving your data.
The very first thing we need to do is enable the services required to share our files. Since we're using CIFS specifically, we want to enable the service required for that particular protocol. So, click on the "Services" button with the gears icon at the top of the page, and you should see this:

Hit the "OFF" button to enable CIFS. Here, you can also enable any other protocol you'd like, such as SSH, NFS, AFP, et cetera. The slider should be flipped to "ON" when you're done.


Next, click the wrench icon to bring up the CIFS service options. We want to check the "Allow guest access" checkbox and click OK.


Now, let's create our CIFS share. On the left menu, expand "Sharing", then "CIFS Shares" and click "Add CIFS Share."


Give your CIFS share a name, and select the path to the volume you just created. In our case /mnt/data not /mnt/vol1. Basically prepend "/mnt/" to the name you gave your volume. Make sure to check "Browsable to Network Clients," "Allow Guest Access." Scroll down and click "OK."

Ta-da! you can now access your share from your clients. From a windows host: Type "\\" in either the Start menu search bar or an Explorer bar. Example: "\\192.168.11.40\datacifs." If you're using a Mac, meanwhile, go to Finder, hit "Go," click "Connect to server" and type smb://. For example: "smb://192.168.11.40/datacifs/." And from a Linux host, simply smbmount //192.168.11.40/datacifs/path/to/mountpoint.

Now you can enjoy your FreeNAS storage. Start copying over your music, pictures and movies. And hey, now you can enable UPnP in FreeNAS and pickup a media player that supports DLNA.
 There's really so much you can do with a home NAS. Exploring is half the fun.

How to Reduce Fan Noise on a Desktop Computer


Here are some tips to help you reduce fan noise on a desktop computer.

Invest in Quieter Fans

It may seem like a good idea to stick to the fans your computer came with, but there are some options available that are made specifically to reduce the amount of noise your computer makes during operation. Your processor, case, graphics card, power supply, and other component-specific fans may be quiet on their own, but together they can create a significant cacophony that can interrupt audio recording.
When purchasing fans individually, you may notice that some online retailers post noise specifications that let you know exactly how loud (or quiet) the fan is during normal operation. You may need to look into the fan’s specifications or details to see it, but you’ll usually find the noise level listed in decibels (dBA). When a fan lists its noise level as 20 dBA, you can bet that this will be an audible but not intrusively noisy device. By comparison, a refrigerator runs at about 50 dBA.
A quick search on Newegg.com revealed that case fans carrying the “quiet” label had a dBA rating of less than 18. Keep in mind that this is during normal operation, and multiple fans can add up to a loud roar.
Also: Just because a case fan says it’s quiet on the packaging doesn’t make it so. I’ve seen some really noisy (25+ dBA) fans that light up and do all kinds of fun things carry the “quiet” tag. Check the decibel rating, always. If a fan says it’s quiet and doesn’t have this rating listed on the packaging or the site you’re buying it from, it’s probably too good to be true.
You might also want to make sure that all of your case fans are pointing in the same direction. This may sound a little strange, but keep in mind that having air blow in the front of your case and out the back is a great way to keep cool air flowing across your hardware rather than pushing hot air back and forth between components. I’ve seen several situations where a computer overheats, only to find that the fans were poorly placed by a home hobbyist attempting to build a gaming rig.
Your power supply may also be a culprit in the overall noise generated by your system. There are some power supply solutions out there that offer a fan control built-in to the back of the power supply, allowing you to turn the speed of the large fan up or down, depending on your needs. One example is the Antec TruePower Quattro Series TPQ-1200 (a mouthful of a product name), which gives you voltage and fan controls build right in to the power supply.

Buy a Quieter Case

The case you buy may also be a consideration. Some cases are made to let air (and noise) travel freely throughout the entire frame. Others are built simply to hold the components in place, with only minor considerations as to the quietness or efficiency of the case.
In the world of PC cases, you get what you pay for. There really is something to the high-end $300+ case market, though you can find a very decent quiet case for around $150.

Water Cooling

While I haven’t tried this option myself, I do know quite a few geeks who have decided to go the route of liquid cooling to keep the temperatures (and noise level) down on their gaming rigs.
Instead of passing air over the components to distribute heat, liquid cooled computers work by passing coolant through a series of tubes to keep vital system components cool. A pump keeps this coolant flowing, and often works at a much lower noise level than an equivalent amount of fans.
Water cooling isn’t for everyone. While there are some solutions available that don’t put your electronics at immediate risk, this doesn’t mean you can’t damage your system should the pump or any other component spring a leak. My brother had this happen to him, and it wasn’t a pleasant situation at all.

Fan Speed Control Software and Hardware

SpeedFan is among the oldest and most highly regarded free solutions to keep your fan speeds under control. Default drivers tend to fire fans off early, or idle at higher speeds than is necessary. SpeedFan allows you to set the barriers at which the fans really kick in, making it easier to keep things quiet while the system is running under relatively safe temperatures.
If you just have your fans plugged directly in to the power supply, you’ll probably just have to deal with the noise they make until you either install a hardware go-between or replace the fan.
It’s worth noting here that it’s never a good idea to overheat your computer for the sake of keeping it quiet. Tweaking the fan speeds to acceptable levels is one thing, but doing so to an extreme can reduce the life of your system. The best rule of thumb here is to let SpeedFan run at its own defaults, which will likely keep your system cool with less noise than default drivers.
There are also several hardware solutions out there, including panels that can be placed at the front of your desktop computer, giving you immediate access to fan speeds and temperatures. They look pretty cool, too. The price of these gadgets range from a mere $20 to something much higher for more powerful rigs. One option available is the NZXT Sentry 2, a single-panel controller that allows you to command up to five channels at one time with 10 watts of power through each channel. With both automatic and manual controls available, you should be able to switch between a lower speed during podcasting, and crank things up during gaming.

Move the Computer

In situations where you absolutely need a completely quiet room in order to record, it’s probably a good idea to move the computer out of the room, as well. This was the solution I came across while doing Internet radio out of my apartment. I set up my computer next to a closet and placed my computer inside. The monitor, keyboard, mouse, and speakers were all handled using USB and audio cable extensions, which allowed the computer to sit almost eight feet away from the desk. With the closet door closed, I couldn’t hear the computer at all.
Be careful where you place your system. Part of your problem might be that it’s not receiving a good amount of ventilation. Do you have things stored on or around it? Even if no air vents are present, stacking items on your desktop computer can increase the amount of heat it retains. Much like a winter coat would a human being, stuffed animals, trinkets, and even monitors can cause an otherwise cool PC to run rather warm.
You may also consider elevating the system using a stand that allows air to flow from all directions. Stands like these are available in just about any office supply store out there, and can work wonders.

Regularly Clean Your System’s Internals

Your desktop computer can collect quite a lot of dust over the course of its lifetime. Taking some time out with each change of the seasons to open your case up and get some of the dust out of it can make a big difference in how loud your fans need to get to keep things cool.
A layer of dust collecting around the blades of a case fan will reduce efficiency and act more as an insulation than anything. This dust can also make its way into the small crevices of the system’s moving parts and cause squeaking and other unpleasant sounds to present themselves.
If you have a fan that is squeaking, this may be a sign that dust (or age) has taken hold of its ball bearing. It might be a good idea to consider replacing the fan at that point. Case fans are pretty cheap — even the shiny ones that blink various colors and glow in the dark.

Kill Unnecessary Processes

It’s possible that your system’s fans are kicking in because it’s working really hard. If you’re attempting to record a podcast while streaming to the Web, checking your email, editing photos, watching yourself on camera, and chatting with people on the Internet, you might be stressing your computer out. You may want to opt to have important processes delegated to another system, keeping the one closest to you (and the microphone) dedicated to giving you the information you need to get through recording.
A netbook or tablet should really be all you need to get you through an audio podcast. If you’re recording yourself while gaming, this can be a tricky solution, but you can probably get around this issue by using some of the steps listed above.
Your CPU will get hotter and hotter with each task it has to carry out. Keeping a CPU cool is a challenge, and sometimes it takes a combination of usage habits, hardware, and software to hold the noise at bay without putting your system at risk.
What about you? What are your tips and tricks for keeping fan noise down, especially in situations where audio is being recorded?

How to Improve Windows 7 Startup Time


When you first wake up or sit at your desk for the first time in the morning, the last thing you want to do is wait for Windows to boot up. While Windows 7 itself depends greatly on hardware for dramatic startup time improvements, there are several ways you can reduce this waiting period.
LVTilley, a member of the LockerGnome community at large, asked about ways to improve Windows 7 startup time via the Windows Questions Form.
I, for one, want nothing more than to see Windows start up within seconds of hitting the power button at the beginning of the day. There was once a time when I would hit the power button, go into the other room, make coffee, pour myself a bowl of cereal, and return to my desk just in time to see my desktop appear. Thankfully, these days are mostly behind us. With the advances in hardware giving us more powerful processors, faster hard drives, and better overall system performance, we expect our computers to be ready at our beck and call the instant we need them.
In this article, we’ll discuss several methods to help reduce startup times in Windows 7. Some of these steps may seem like common sense, though they are easily overlooked as we go about our day-to-day lives.
Windows 7, like many versions before it, depends greatly on software developers to maintain a balance between performance and efficiency. A combination of factors play into your system startup time including: programs, drivers, background tasks, system utilities, and in some cases even your font library. It’s hard to nail down one specific cause of an extended startup time. You can, however, do your best to mitigate this delay by reducing the amount of unnecessary strain your computer goes through when it first boots up.
Here are some tips to help you improve Windows 7 startup time.

Solid-State Drives

Solid-state drives (SSD) are very quick, durable, and are an increasingly less expensive method of storing your files. While a solid-state drive may not be a practical approach to storing all of your data, it plays a very big role in speeding up your computer’s start up time, in addition to the time it takes to load programs. By installing your primary operating system and programs on a solid-state drive, you eliminate the need to wait while the platter speeds up and the magnetic read head locates and relays important system data.
If you’ve ever seen a video on YouTube demonstrating a solid-state drive, there’s a good chance it included a demonstration of Windows loading almost instantly. This is due in part to the remarkably fast read/write times made possible by a solid-state drive. Since all of the data is stored electronically rather than written to a platter, it’s much easier for the drive to locate specific bits and pass them on to the rest of the system.

Remove Ghosted Drivers

Ghosted drivers are one of those things that you rarely hear about, but can actually impact the performance of your system as it boots up. Believe it or not, your computer may still be affected by devices that you plugged in months ago, and haven’t used in ages. Whether those devices are plugged in currently are not, your system may be searching for them when it boots up.
For example, if you plug in a USB headset to record some audio, but don’t plan on using it ever again in the future, it may have unplugged it thinking that that’s all you really needed to do. But in reality, Windows may be searching for that device every time you boot up in order to quickly install and begin using it. This feature serves as a convenience in many cases as it reduces the amount of time it takes to recognize hardware that was previously plugged in and make it available to you. On the downside, this can make loading Windows take just a little longer than it should.
One way to find and remove these ghosted devices is through the Device Manager. By right clicking onDevice Manager and selecting View > Show Hidden Files, you can see (and remove) ghosted devices.
Another method for removing them is through a third-party application called GhostBuster. GhostBuster lists all of your devices in an easy-to-read fashion, giving you the ability to select and remove ghosted devices all at once. GhostBuster can also help you avoid removing devices that are essential to your system’s well-being.

Control Startup Applications and Services

When Windows starts up, a lot of things happen. Drivers are loaded, fonts are put at the ready, and background tasks are initiated. One of the biggest factors to Windows startup time is the amount of applications that load without you even having to execute them. Music programs will load assistants that run in the background, allowing you to quickly launch the program when you hit a media key on your keyboard. Anti-virus programs, office applications, screen recorders, and just about anything else that runs on Windows may be launching the moment you boot your system. This can cause an enormous strain on your processor, hard drive, and RAM before you even have a chance to load anything yourself.
Not every program that starts up when you first load Windows appears in the system tray. Many programs will load in the background without even letting you know that they’re there. Often, the only way you can tell these programs are loaded at all is by checking the Task Manager.
Services are another issue. Like applications, some services may be considered unnecessary. For example, if you don’t use Windows Media Center at all, there’s no point in having it load each time to launch Windows.
Believe it or not, you do have a lot of control over what loads when you boot up Windows. You can tell your system not to allow specific applications to run until you have executed them yourself. There are several ways to go about this, and here are a couple.
Within the Application Itself
Many applications have an option within their preferences menu to stop it from running when Windows starts. This preference is often toggled on by default as it is considered a convenience to have the application run automatically. Unfortunately, it isn’t always a convenience. In fact, some programs are just downright needy and do little more than hog up all of your system resources. If you don’t use the program on a regular basis, what’s the point in having it run automatically anyway?
Finding out where this option is depends on the program itself. Often it’s available in the first general menu under preferences, but it may also be located under the advanced tabs of the settings window. If you’re having trouble finding it, a quick Google search might help.
How to Improve Windows 7 Startup TimeMSCONFIG
Another option available to you is MSCONFIG, a feature of Windows itself. By typing msconfigin into the search field of your start menu, you’ll have access to a system configuration utility that allows you to customize several key settings including which applications load when Windows starts.
You’ll find these program settings under the Startuptab, and can disable them by deselecting the check box next to the Application.
It’s important to note here that this should be a last resort taken only if the program itself doesn’t offer a solution. You should also note that there are several programs that may be essential to your system’s operation, making a blanket disable all option that should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.

Perform Maintenance; Get Rid of Things You Don’t Need

A computer is a lot like a car. It is a complex machine and its general life span and performance can be improved with a little maintenance. While it may be impractical to check the computer’s oil or washer fluid levels, you can see pretty amazing results from just a little love and care.
Defragment your hard drive once a week, clean out your Downloads directory once in a while, and delete programs you no longer need. A lean system fitted with only the programs you need to get through your daily life will perform better than one bloated with excess garbage. Windows startup times will likely benefit from this extra attention, as well.

Use Standby Mode

Windows 7 users can enjoy much faster access to their data by putting their systems in Hibernate or Standby mode instead of shutting them off entirely. While rebooting may be required from time to time, it’s typically a good idea to let Windows go into hibernation rather than simply shutting the system down. In many cases, firing up a hibernating system can take seconds rather than minutes, and give you almost-immediate access to your files and programs.
Laptops are especially benefited by this feature, as closing the lid and sliding your PC into your laptop bag shouldn’t be accompanied by the long wait while everything closes down and the little power light fades into darkness. Likewise, taking your laptop out of the bag and opening the lid should result in everything coming right up as it was before, with only a minimal amount of battery usage between locations. Hibernation takes it a step further, using almost no battery power (it’s technically shut down) to maintain the session you were in the middle of before hitting the road.
This can be equally beneficial to desktop users. Turning in for the night doesn’t have to be followed by a lengthy wait. You can use the energy preferences to control when your system goes to sleep automatically, waking back up with a click of the mouse, or tap of the space bar.
These are just a few of the many tips that can help streamline Windows 7 startup times. What are your suggestions? Are there any tips or tricks that have helped your system fire up faster?